Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have my car 1990 R32 GTR but with 94 model engine from my previous r32, What will i have to do now to get it registered? Body doesnt have compliance plate as it is 15 y.o import... as i stated in title that everything for compliance is done, do i need to get an engineers cert?.. ive never registered a car before (previous cars owned were already registered) so what do i need to do to get my car on the road?????

P.S. Anyone that knows of a engineer in Sydney that will do my job cheap will be tops too :)

All help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Michael.

Edited by GRKGTR

So the current chassis.... it is a 1990 model.... you have import approval, but it doesn't have compliance plate.

Are you saying it doesn't have any AUSTRALIAN plate at all? If it was imported under the 15yo rule, it will still need to be complied for minor items such as seatbelts, side intrusion bars and child seat restraints, but you will get a blue 'modification plate' rather than a 'compliance plate' or 'import plate'.

Now you say everything for compliance is done. Are you now just looking for an engineer to sign the work off and write your modification plate out?

Now don't quote me on this, but I think all should be ok with the newer motor too, as long as the engineer checks it and has the correct (new) engine number on the engineer's cert... same goes for the roadworthy cert.

Once you have the mod plate, and the engineers certificate, go and get a roadworthy cert, then go to an insurer to organise CTP.

This needs to be done BEFORE you go to the Transport Dept, as CTP for first time registered vehicles is paid direct to the insurance co.

Once you have all of this, take all your docs to the transport dept, with your GTR, and go get it registered.

Now, I am unsure of the regulations in NSW, but in QLD once you have the ctp, you can drive the car DIRECTLY to the transport department, as long as you have ALL documents with you, and FULLY filled out (including the Registration Application). If this is also the case in NSW, this will save you having to tow the car to the trans dept and back again. Usually, you have 24 then to secure the plates to the car. Keep your payment receipt with in the car until your rego sticker arrives...

I hope this makes sense... but if you have any questions by all means PM me.

Cheers,

Beau

Edited by insanity
So the current chassis.... it is a 1990 model.... you have import approval, but it doesn't have compliance plate.

Are you saying it doesn't have any AUSTRALIAN plate at all? If it was imported under the 15yo rule, it will still need to be complied for minor items such as seatbelts, side intrusion bars and child seat restraints, but you will get a blue 'modification plate' rather than a 'compliance plate' or 'import plate'.

Yes it doesn't have compliance plate/sticker which as i have read is alright as it's a 15y.o import.. in NSW we dont have the blue modification plates. So all i have to do is just get an engineer to sign off the compliance work done? any idea how much would that cost roughly? i got a quote today for $1200 and thats engineers cert for the aftermarket parts etc and the compliance work.. am i getting ripped off or is that a good price?

I normally pay around the $1000 mark for the compliance work and the engineer's cert.

If it is $1200 for the engineer to sign off the compliance work ALREADY done, then I think its a bit steep... even if he is adding some other mods you have done.

Fair enough, you have to pay for the engineer's time, but shit, I believe the actual mod plates only cost them $5 or so.

Out of interest, who did the compliance work, and what did they do?

I normally pay around the $1000 mark for the compliance work and the engineer's cert.

If it is $1200 for the engineer to sign off the compliance work ALREADY done, then I think its a bit steep... even if he is adding some other mods you have done.

Fair enough, you have to pay for the engineer's time, but shit, I believe the actual mod plates only cost them $5 or so.

Out of interest, who did the compliance work, and what did they do?

The guy i bought the shell car off had imported it from japan and did the compliance himself .. he told me he done everything all it needs is just engineer certificate.

Would you happen to know any engineers in sydney that will give me a better price?

Cheers,

Michael.

No Probs...

All the best with it too...

before you do go.. just make sure the seat belts have the Australian Standard markings on them, and that you do have the side intrusion bars, child seat restraints etc before you go to see the engineer... don't want to be wasting his time if the guy that sold the car didn't actually do the work he says he did!!

Seatbelt "Australian Standard Marking"...

law includes 'or equivalent standards/markings' (something like that).

JIS markings (Japan Industrial Standards) ARE Australian Standard under the law. Should be a white tag near the base.

I had a two week argument with a mechanic over this. They wanted to replace them (and charge me). I said they WERE Australian Standard... I won.

FYI, is all

--ebola

Download the list of engineers from the RTA site and start calling.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s/vsi/vsi15.pdf

They are sometimes a bit so-so about signing off on work they haven't overseen, especially when it comes to the side intrusion bars which would be required. If not done already I think you'll also need the Australian VIN number to be affixed to the engine bay somewhere (?).

But from where you are now, engineers certificate, blueslip, and weighbridge ticket are the main things.

See RTA link below for establishing new registration for an imported vehicle and the documents you need:

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/rego_new.html

//edited to include correct VSI link.

The guy i bought the shell car off had imported it from japan and did the compliance himself .. he told me he done everything all it needs is just engineer certificate.

Would you happen to know any engineers in sydney that will give me a better price?

Cheers,

Michael.

I hope you have the import approval, otherwise your in a spot of bother

I just need someone in sydney who will do it cheaper than $1200 .. because i checked the seatbelts and they dont need to be changed as they have the JIS markings on them and absolutely everything for compliance is done just need engineer to tick it off and give me certificate.

Did you call around the Engineer list? They are the only ones who the RTA will accept to sign off, there's not that many so call until you find a cheap one. Easy :wub:

Yeh but they are in areas too far from me like hornsby etc.

Like I said, you can only get rego with an Engineer from the list. There are no exceptions to that.

Like I said, you can only get rego with an Engineer from the list. There are no exceptions to that.

Well as i can see there is not ONE who does chassis and body for passenger cars so correct me if im wrong but i think the rta f*kd up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...