Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go to the shop and read the back of each oil. only look at the ones with the prices you would like to pay. buy something that fits the way you feel about your car. thats what i do.. either mobile 1 magnatec or last time i used something else which i cant remember ahhaahhaha

Guest Boxhead

motul 8100? i didnt see that one, ohwell

i use motul 6100, its like $4 cheaper then mobil one at the auto barn i was at, and $10 cheaper then the castrol formula r, i just put it in last nite, and i think the car is smoother then the other stuff in it from compliance...

but motul has a way better cap thing on it, you can pull it out and so its much easier to pour :)

Where can you buy good quality oil from in 20L drums? That is the cheapest way to buy it apparently.

Edit: Erm, not "the" cheapest, obviously, but probably the cheapest while still remaining somewhat practical.

I bought some motul 8100 because I was too lazy to drive further from home in search of (cheaper) mobil 1. besides which, the mobil 1 I had in the car broke down quite suddenly at around 7500km since being changed. that kind of end-of-life knee worries me, it's too quick. I guess you REALLY know when the oil's had enough though.. "holy christ it's below the low mark and it's turned really dark!" (previous checks had all shown very little oil usage and still light golden colour)

hmmmmmmmmmmm..... :O

Castrol R synthetic is an excellent oil. Pricey but im a great believer in you get what you pay for. If your engine hasnt been using synthetic oil previously you will find that for the first 5 to 10,000kms you will burn oil. This is because your bedding in the bores to suit synthetic oil.

Try Tufoil additive. Its in the guiness book of records as the slipperiest oil additive in the world. They ran an engine that had the oil drained containing Tufoil and it ran 8 times longer than the second longest engine with i think Slick 50 added to it. My engine still looks brand new inside.

Michael...

Changing the oil is the same as every other car, just remove the filter and sump plug, let it drain out, put new filter on and plug back in, then fill up with about 4.5 litres of your chosen oil.

I personally change the oil every 5000km instead of every 10000, burnt oil deposits are the main cause of turbo bearing failure so you want it as clean as possible all the time.

jim x thanx.

now with regards to the sump plug-is it located underneath the car??? my magna's one was about drivers side underneath the car.

where is the sump plug for the skyline and more importantly how do i take off the oil filter off. It looks like in a tight position. can i buy a normal oil filter for my skyline. sorry about these qns.

cheers

The plug is towards the back of the sump, I *think* on the passenger side but I really can't remember. I always have to look for it again whenever I change the oil (3 times now) and never take a mental note.

The oil filter can be removed by hand if the previous owner has done it up properly (ie, by hand). Try using a rag to get a better grip. Failing that, try using a filter spanner, but I don't know which type will fit because I've (luckily) always been able to remove it by hand.

Normal oil filters are fine, just make sure you get the right type. I don't know what that is, I just ask my spare parts shop for an oil filter to fit a '95 turbo Skyline and he gets me the right one.

Just to stir the pot,below is a quote from another forum by a guy that says he works in the industry.If you want to read the whole thread here is the address:

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...&highlight=agip

"This whole comparison thing is killing me, so i will state what we found is best OVERALL for a turbo charged vehicle after several months of testing in the lab and on the dyno. But, i also must say that it is no reflection of how much better or worse and what is best for eveyones cars out there. Some might be better for performance, some for anti wear and some for length of life.

When i get the chance i will post the full mcdaddy on a new thread that will have an explanation on the outcomes along with graphs on several of the factors listed. So here is what we found to be the best products for a turbo:

1. Elf Excellium 0w40

2. Mobil 1 0w40

3. Agip sint 2000

4. Castrol formula r 0w40

5. Motul 'somthingorather'

6. Mobil 1 5w50

7. Shell Helix (xWx)

so on and so forth...i cant remember the type of motul or type type of shell off the top of my head and there were a couple of more we tested."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The door and bonnet gaps look very tight for such cheap models 👍
    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
×
×
  • Create New...