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Ive got the same problem, .6mm gap, splitfires and I still get a missfire at 5500rpm, only when its a cold night, however If I give the car a massive beating and have been driving for at least an hour it doesn't misfire.

Ideas? It massively richens up around that area as well down to 10:1

If its dropping down to 10:1 around the same area that it missfires then it very well may be richer than 10:1 as 10:1 is the lowest the widebands read.

So it could be 9:1.

Lean it off. Rich misfire. :)

OK SO MORE OF AN UPDATE.

Got a new set of plugs the BPR6ES, as they had no BPR6E. Gapped down to 0.7mm, and put a bit more timming into it.

So went for a drive, and it seams ok, will need to test some more.

ONLY thing is now, the flat spot has come back at 4500-5500, right where R&R is, so i guess it is now getting some R&R.

IT did not do this with plugs at 0.8mm

SO i went an auto electrician, and he told me that the CAS woudl not cause any problems.

All the plugs i took out looked exactly thesame, none were leaner, spot on, so i recon it's not the injectors.

I checked the ground, and it is spot on, to the engine and to the coils, the loom all checks out ok.

Another posability is that the ECU is bugared or something, so who knows.

I am getting very dishartend here, i have spent money on all the good gear, and still shit, what am i to do. Not only that but fuel economy sux 350km out of 50 liters in town, and not mush better on the Highway. The car has been tuned, and checked over and all come back as OK, corrected AFR and so forth.

ONE MORE THING, CAN SOMONE WITH A MULTIMETER, got to their splitfire coils and do a resistance reading between the ground, center plug and the LH one when looking at the coil. I tested mine and i get 1600ohms, when teh mulitmeter is set to 2000ohm reading. The AUTO electritian told me it has to be 0.9 ohms, and that is near imposible.

I am at a lost.

Edited by WogsRus

I have it in lamda so it was 0.8 accross the board form 2000rpm, this was before the new coils and the CAI.

So who knows. I had a bit of a play with the fuel maps, and didn't do much differance, still same.

So 0.8 with a wideband? Play with the fuel maps? So your running a n SAFC?

Ignore the narrow band they are useless. :laugh:

My narrow band was reading 0.88 and it was running in and past the 10's. Tune her up via the pfc to run 12:1 and its still 0.88. So yes they are useless.

Yess i have an SAFC II, sorry the lamda form the dyno is in lamda, not AFR, but 0.8 means 12 or so, it's a bit hard to read of the graph, i can go back and get one with AFR, but it's basically the same thing, LAMDBA is 14.1AFR*Lambda. It was tuned properly

The car was tuned on a dyno, but is going to go back to get a tidyup, but i want to sorght out the issues with spark first.

I am a bit worried as i can't seam to find it. DAM IT.

Yep .88 with the narrow band = 12:1 wideband.

Well its a bugger. Best off sending it back to the tuner and getting him to sort it out then. He should have all the required tools to do so.

I think you have exhausted your means. :S

WELL GUESS WHAT, the missifre is back, i am begingin to think it might be something to do with R&R, but it has never doen this before. I am going to borrow a mates ecu and see if it makes any differance, but the missfire is like a rev limiter, not a flat spot like it should be.

Gam currently is 0.7mm, going to go down to 0.6mm and see what happens.

As to my tuner, well i have spent FAR to much money so i don't have anything left, got to do as much as possibly myself.

This sux, i mean i broght the dam things as they are suppose to be better then stock, yeah well not working yet.

Hay cubes, do you have splitfires, can you test the resistance accross the terminals as per this post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=151477

Eaven if you have stock ones, can you do a test to see. Mine are really high like 1600 ohms, should be very low, like 0.9 ohms.

DAM IT ALL, i'm about to sell it i think, have had enough. DAM IMPORTS.

Yep I will check them out as I have to rip the plugs out and regap them anyhow. :)

I've still got the stock coils in there as I have siliconed them up and appear to be working quite well.

In a few weeks I'm soon to wind 20odd PSI in to it so I want to see if the std coils with lots of silicon over them hold up. Strange you may say but I'm a fiddler and just want to see as I literally have siliconed every surface so it will be impossible for the spark to arc out any where other than the spark plug. :laugh:

Well my old ones were all siliconed up to and still missfired, now i know these were definatly stuffed, as the spark was so hard to see and shit, the splitfires have a nice BRIGHT FAT WHITE spark, but still missfire.

I am going to take a coil to get tested to see if the output is ok, and if they say that the coils are good and should not missifre, then there is another problem. I so badly want this car to be 10/10, but at the moment i am very unhappy.

OHHH WELLL

I prefer to tinker, as it cost less too. LOL. i am basically gona go over everysensor and check all of them and see, but i was told that the CAS should not make any differance. BUT i will get another to see allong with another AFM

The cas will cause issues if the half moon drive is worn. Yours being a series 2.. Unsure if they still run with the half moon or not.

There was a thread on it a while back.

Essentially there was a slight missfire and lack of power at higher rpm.

Well i will pull mine out to have a look at the CAS, and se if there is any slack and so forth. BUT i have only a missfire at 4500-5500 rom and the a massive top end pull, so who knows.

I will also check the timming belt to make sure that is ok. I am going to plug in the dataloger and go for a drive to see what is happening, and see if any problems can be dignosed form that.

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