Got Splitfires, And 1.0mm Gap=missfire (update) 0.8mm

[shnaped_second]

Yep I will check them out as I have to rip the plugs out and regap them anyhow.

I've still got the stock coils in there as I have siliconed them up and appear to be working quite well.

In a few weeks I'm soon to wind 20odd PSI in to it so I want to see if the std coils with lots of silicon over them hold up. Strange you may say but I'm a fiddler and just want to see as I literally have siliconed every surface so it will be impossible for the spark to arc out any where other than the spark plug.

You got anypics on how you siliconed them up? just keen to see how its done

Thanks

[Zas)-(]

ok heres my 2cents in a barrel of technical words from others

have u tried putting in ngk bcpr6es or bcp7es ? ( i dunno can some1 correct me on the part numbers if wrong? )

heat ranges can also cause miss fire in plugs?

so maybe by using the bcpr7es it could be alot better den da v-groove

get da ones already pre-gapped to 8mm

so e.g bcpr7es-8 <--- like that.. if im wrong den u onli wasted 23 bucks.

or bcpr6es is what i use and hittin up 12psi ..

so goodluck man...

[WogsRus]

OK more of an update.

Last night i pulled teh CAS out and did all the check, voltages checked out OK, no issies, exactly as per spec sheet.

I pulled all the coils out, and all tested thesame, no issie, same resistances ect.

Checked the power to the coils, all gettting 12.4V, this was with the engine off, me crankinc the CAS manualy. Only thing is the trigger to the coils was 10.4V, not sure what this is suppose to be.

All the plugs i took out looked exactly thesame, but they have only been in for 100km, and looked as if they had only been put in. I put the old BRK plugs in gapped to 0.6mm.

Checked the injectors, no issiues there, all work as per manual, all resistance correct, no probs, all fire nice and even.

So i put it all back together, and only had a quick drive, the missfire is propably gone, but the dip in the R&R is getting much bigger, going to remove the R32 actator as it cause tooo much boost at the VTC transition.

When i had the plugs at 0.8mm there were no issues with R&R i guess because it was misfiring.

Tomorrow i am going to get a new ECU with all the R&R removed and test that, maybe mione is funny.

Also going to do a log of the car while driving to see what the results are, see if we can pick anything up.

OK well that's me done. NO idea where to go from here.

I wanted a bigger gap to get better ecconomy, now i get $350 out of 55 liters in town, and that sux. I was told that a biger gap will increase my ecconomy, but no worky so far.

Is there anything else i can do to fix my ecconomy, i have a new O2 sensor, new temp sensor, tuned to correct AFR, new fuel lines, new filter and still crap fuel.

HELP ME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[WogsRus]

Forgot to add, also checked the spline on the CAS, nice and tight, and no slack on teh timing belt, so that is all good too.

[WogsRus]

ALSO i have no error codes, but is it possible that an AFM can be stuffed?

It seams strange that the missfire happens at midrange, not high rpm.

[Cubes]

The missfire will occur through the mid range as peak torque occurs through the mid range. Peak torque = peak combustion pressures.

High combustion pressures need a good spark.

At high rpm the motors VE drops off resulting there's less in the cylinder, this makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap and ignite the mixture.

[Adriano]

Maybe try putting a multimeter on the power feed wire to the coils and go for a drive to see if there is any voltage drop in the wiring to the coils, and make sure the ecu is well earthed.

You need to do this under load to see if there is any voltage drop, as current drawn by the coils is directly proportional to cylinder pressures.

[mattymagoo22]

you don't have a slight blockage in your exaust????

My mates car's cat converter matrix broke away from the housing and sometimes it would turn sideways in exhaust and block flow of exhaust and other times when driven it would be in correct postion and flow as meant to, we also found parts of it in the rear muffler too just an idea.

[WogsRus]

yeah well how the hell do i graph the voltage under driving conditions. LOL. migth have to rig something up. LOL.

As to the exhaust, i have no cat and straight through muffler.

Took it for a drive just now, and the missfire has gone at 0.6mm, but still this is only a band aid sollution, so i am going to have a look more into it.

Thanks all for the replies, soo keep them comming, and I PROMIS over time i will get to the bottom of it.

[DVS JEZ]

check the actual plugs them selves.

i just got my GTR running, missfiring like hell, checked plugs, NGK R's found 4 of them were cracked, must have been a bad batch,

[eXc]

I just solved mine recently, it was the AFM. I didn't read the whole thread, but borrow a mates AFM.

I cleaned mine, so I figured it wasn't the problem.

I did the silicone coil pack trick and it helped for a little while, so I bought splitfires and it didn't fix it! It was just a co-incidence that it fixed them temporarily. haha

I also did fuel pump and filter (as I am putting a bigger turbo on this week anyways)

So yeah...maybe you can borrow an AFM.

[WogsRus]

Well i will try and see what it does. If the AFM is stuffed, would that not throw up any codes? ALSO if it was the AFM, how does gapping the plugs improve it?

Hopefully i will get a new ECU to try tonight. See how it goes.

ALSO mine ONLY missfires under WOT or full load, if just putting arround, no issues. I recon it has something to do wiht the power supply to the coils or something.

Edited January 14, 2007 by WogsRus

[WogsRus]

INTERESTING THREAD I FOUND

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/67665-sp...missfire-2.html

"IIRC splitfires have a longer dwell time/angle than stock, something like 1.7ms vs 1.3ms? There was a post from Hugh from ages ago with the info in"

ALOS

"Installation was a snap. The dyno graphs show where the stock ignition fell short on voltage. The instructions mention that you should switch to cooler plugs when upgrading power adders. Thankfully, all of the directions are in English"

Form another forum, now i already have 6 heatrange, should i try 7

Edited January 14, 2007 by WogsRus

[WogsRus]

OK SO got the car on to have a look at the data scan software, all seams Ok at idle, i didn't get a chance to go for a drive, run out of time, am getting it done on thursday.

ONLY thing i noticed, was that the CAS puls, was going 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 10, 15, 15, 15, 15, 10, 15 ect ect. This is in degrees. SO i don't know what that mean.

Haven't had a chance to try ECU, also ran out of time.

THE SERCH CONTINIUES

[The Alchemist]

Hi, I would be looking at your dwell time. Run it under load on the dyno and put an amps clamp around the neg trigger from the coil back to the ignitor and check that your coils are fully saturating. Do a google search for "coil saturation" and you will find plenty of scope graphs showing what this means.

Splitfires do seem to have a slightly longer charge time so if you haven't adjusted your dwell time accordly your coils may not be being charged fully. This compromises the coils ability to fire a spark under high load or peak torque conditions. If you have a PFC and the datalogit software dwell time is able to be changed to suit. If however, you have the hand controller you are stuffed as dwell time is not an option with the hand controller.

I just saw you have a series 2 with no ignitor..... put the amps clamp around the 12v positive wire to the coil, this should still show the amps each coil is drawing and its charge time

Hope this helps,

Mike

Edited January 16, 2007 by The Alchemist

[mattymagoo22]

grab a mate and go for a drive and see what reading in Volts your getting for the AFM when the problem happens and let us know what that value is, otherwise i'd check the dwell time as i've heard about that problem before good luck

[WogsRus]

Sorry but i have an SAFC II, so i can't change the dwell time.

Yeah i am going to log all the values next week or so, ran out of money, got our power bill, so it's spend money time.

Thanks all

[WogsRus]

OK OK OK OK OK I FIXED IT. YYEEEHHHHAAAA

Ok so here we go.

Last night i took out all the plugs, i mean electrical contacts, all the ones i could fins in the engine bay. I sprayed WD40 into all of these and made sure all were nice and clean. Redid all these back up and tested connections with a multimeter.

Next to the temperature ECU sensor, near the fan, there are some earth connections, allthough all good, i re-did these.

Reset the TPS to read 0.5v when ignition is on, this was originaly 0.23v.

This made a big differance.

Pluged it all up, dialed in 18 deg of timing, reset the computer, went for a drive and gapped at 0.8 still got a miss, but all ok at 0.75mm. PROBLEM SOLVED. FCUCKING COMPUTERS

This morning i still got a bit off a miss, when it was DAM cold, so i pluged up a different ecu, with the R&R removed, and no more miss AT ALL, so the R&R with the retardation was contributing to the problem.

FINALY, i am happy, only problem now is to redo the tune with the new Central20 ECU and go form there. SO far though, i have no extra knock, and can't hear any pinging, so should be all good, she steps out sidways on the gas, i love it. LOL.

[grandmasterb]

OK OK OK OK OK I FIXED IT. YYEEEHHHHAAAA

Ok so here we go.

Last night i took out all the plugs, i mean electrical contacts, all the ones i could fins in the engine bay. I sprayed WD40 into all of these and made sure all were nice and clean. Redid all these back up and tested connections with a multimeter.

Next to the temperature ECU sensor, near the fan, there are some earth connections, allthough all good, i re-did these.

Reset the TPS to read 0.5v when ignition is on, this was originaly 0.23v.

This made a big differance.

Pluged it all up, dialed in 18 deg of timing, reset the computer, went for a drive and gapped at 0.8 still got a miss, but all ok at 0.75mm. PROBLEM SOLVED. FCUCKING COMPUTERS

This morning i still got a bit off a miss, when it was DAM cold, so i pluged up a different ecu, with the R&R removed, and no more miss AT ALL, so the R&R with the retardation was contributing to the problem.

FINALY, i am happy, only problem now is to redo the tune with the new Central20 ECU and go form there. SO far though, i have no extra knock, and can't hear any pinging, so should be all good, she steps out sidways on the gas, i love it. LOL.

How long ago did i tell you to change the farking ECU YOU stubborn boy

Glad you got it fixed cobber, now you can let me have a drive

[WogsRus]

NO probs GMB, you can have it anytime, aslong as you don't try and do any standups in it. LOL.

Well it's wasn't just the ecu, but the central 20 one rock. In first the thing just wheel spins, and second, yeeehhhhaaaaaaaa.

Go to check the AFR's, but the guy who i got the ECU form has a dyno from KUTSIE, and kutsie said that it actually runs quite ritch