Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title suggests i would like some advice on what revs is best to cut a sub 2 second 60 footer. im running gt3040 600hp turbo making 346rwkws on dyno dynamics i willpost dyno sheet. if im making full boost by 4500rpm and i have a good clutch, 245/45x17 nitto extreme drag radials. what is the best tyre pressure to get good traction ie: a good 60 footer as well as what revs so i dont bog the car down e.t.c.also wheres is the best revs to shift for maximum acceleration. anyone in the know would be greatly appreciated. its hard to practise at calder my local track seing how it takes 4 hours to get 5 or 6 runs and by the time you queue for the nxt run youve forgotten what you did the last time you ran,as to try and improve . obviously its illegal to practise on the street ,so i figure if i can go away from these forums with some insight i might have a good chance of nailing a good pass in the limited ammount of runs that one gets at a busy drag strip like calder park. cheers carl.post-6176-1168507421.jpg

Each car is different in its setup.

Your really just going to have to give it a shot, and practice will sort it out for you with regards to the launches.

Tyre pressure, im not sure there.

Gears... I'd be changing as close to your peak power as you can.

If you feel it "drops" a bit on a gear change, just take it a few 100 RPM further the next time till it feels like you shift and it goes back into a meaty area.

Thats how i used to drag mine and it seemed to work ok when i ran a 12.1 even if it was all over the place at the time.

Although, if you get to calder as soon as it opens, and dont muck around, you'll eaily get 10+ runs on a night.

I used to get there early, and you can do back-to-back runs virtually for the first hour and a half before the main rush beings :)

There will be more useful info for sure, that'll just get it started

Good luck with it, you should be hitting 125mph without much of an issue

You need to balance the clutch and throttle. Use at least 4000-5000rpm and lift the clutch and as you do, use more throttle. Dont dump the clutch at high revs as this causes wheelspin. Do it progessively and you feel the tyres bight and then your away. If you are finding that you are getting alot of grip, try it quicker and use more revs until you find out your traction limits. Best i got was 1.88 60', anymore revs and it would break into wheelspin.

Good luck, 125mph should be possible, but will require a perfect run

thanks for the tips robos, i reckon 12.18 from a hks 2535 is pretty darn good! 1.88 sec 60 ft not bad either. i was flicking through the for sale classifieds the other day and iam quite sure that i saw your ad to sell that turbo. what turbo set up are you looking at running next?

thanks for the tips robos, i reckon 12.18 from a hks 2535 is pretty darn good! 1.88 sec 60 ft not bad either. i was flicking through the for sale classifieds the other day and iam quite sure that i saw your ad to sell that turbo. what turbo set up are you looking at running next?

BigCarl

Picked up a GT3071R for a decent price so i thought i would try it. Finally its all on now but having some lack of boost problems so im trying to iron it out.

If you run a decent 60', you should have a 11 in the bag. Just dont get carried away on the take off as thats where it all counts for a good 1/4.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I鈥檓 interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they鈥檙e still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 馃檪 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
  • Create New...