Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But even if its out of sight, if you've got a little valet button under your panel, and can follow the two wires back somewhere, you'll find the module pretty quick?!

maybe... :P

I'm not going to disclose how I do these cars just that I do them.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So maybe the best way to install an alarm is not to install a valet switch, or flashing LED, and pull all the dash out and hide the module well away, and tap into the wiring loom up under the dash, not near the ignition barrell...

i have M80G with microwave sensors, or is it ultrasonic? f**k i cant remember. Anyway dont think i've ever had false alarm with it, but if u leave the window down and a someone sticks a finger inside the car, they go off! Wind would probably do it too i imagine if the window was down and it was armed. I like it! :sleep:

  • 1 month later...

bought the m80G off ebay for $215, its alright, nothing special to me. However, when you turn off the car after 30secs it will automatically immobilise the engine with a small chirp. Damn this feature is VERY annoying to me and whoever buys this alarm

However, when you turn off the car after 30secs it will automatically immobilise the engine with a small chirp

THis meaning it wont effect my turbo timer which is set to 30sec?

Chris i think i read u install them but think your in sydney... Are these mongoose alarms off ebay same stuff you would use or is their a catch to buying them off these guys?

Edited by bluey33

HI ALL,

I have an M80s which has been working fine with my Greddy turbo timer until i decided to see if it was possible to lock the doors while the turbo timer was shutting down. Since then the central locking hasn't worked when i arm my skyline. Has this happened to anyone before? Or is it possibly just bad timing and has nothing to do with the fact that i tried to lock doors as timer was shutting down and is more to do with the central locking motor giving up (dying) on me?

CHEERZ.

Edited by HUNTZ
does it work otherwise? IE if you disarm/rearm will it lock the car?

HI CHRIS,

Thanks for replying so quickly. Appreciate it. No, central locking no longer works, manual locking only,ie. key. Turbo timer works fine as all ways so does alarm, minus the c/locking side of things any way. Whats happening is that when i switch off ignition turbo timer kicks in for its 30 second cool down, 30 secs after that alarm imobilises engine then I hit button 1 to arm, alarm is now activated as usual just doesn't want to lock doors any more???

CHEERZ...HUNTZ.

Edited by HUNTZ

depends. from that it would appear that the rod has slipped. other thing of course is a blown fuse onthe alarm- IF that is the case I would look at the wiring going to teh actuator BEFORE replacing the fuse.

Thanks Chris will look into it and let you know how I go. Please excuse my igrorance, but actuator? (sorry mate for asking what is probably a very self explanitorary question.)

CHEERZ.

PS. are there two rods? ie. lock and unlock, likewise with fuses?

Edited by HUNTZ

Chris mate you're a bloody champion!!!

Cheerz heaps for all your assistance on this. Sliding performance has a great picture of an actuator which I came across while looking for bitz'n'pieces so now with your help and their flick I know what i'm looking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...