Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$800?

Thats sounds a little too cheap... you sure it isnt some dodge copy?

They retail around $1700 normally... even i couldnt get one for $800 and i would be paying less than RRP

$800?

Thats sounds a little too cheap... you sure it isnt some dodge copy?

They retail around $1700 normally... even i couldnt get one for $800 and i would be paying less than RRP

That's exactly what i was thinking.............................................but thought i'd keep my mouth shut :O

Hopefully it's not some low quality item that pops at 15psi, or after a couple of dyno runs :O

no its new... genuine brand new garrett direct form garrett... see if you can find someone whos willing to do this favour for you and lives in america... only problem is i have to wait 2 weeks or more for it. but for this turbo i can wait. a long while.

Only question is right. Is this the right replacement turbo I am ordering? its in T3 flavour and im going for the 0.63 version for quicker top power to rev. Can i still install and run this on the same ECU? (stock)

no its new... genuine brand new garrett direct form garrett... see if you can find someone whos willing to do this favour for you and lives in america... only problem is i have to wait 2 weeks or more for it. but for this turbo i can wait. a long while.

Only question is right. Is this the right replacement turbo I am ordering? its in T3 flavour and im going for the 0.63 version for quicker top power to rev. Can i still install and run this on the same ECU? (stock)

hrmmm do be carefull with this person who's willing to do a favour for you.

I'm unsure exactly what you mean by GT3040. When you say GT3040 to myself and many others that means the GT3082r. 82r being the 52trim 82mm GT40 comp wheel paired with the GT30 60mm turbine wheel.

If this is the case its a poor match. You really are better off with the GT3076r 56t 6 blade 600hp turbo. This is the 'true' GT30r and will make ~300rwkw if not a touch more on good fuel and retain good response. Its very similiar (apart from comp and turbine housing variations) as the HKS3037S. In twin form they have made 700rwkw on a jap GTR and a friends R33 GTST (stock bottom end, thick head gasket) 323rwkw.

IF you want to run around with the .63 turbine a/r your best bet would to step down the compressor to the 52t gt37 variant.

Dropping a large compressor wheel on a restrictive hot side is silly as you won't make a great deal more peak power (if any) but response and spool will suffer. The car will be laggy/peaky for the given power it is making. Definitely not good for a street car.

With that turbo your also going to need:

PowerFC - $1100

Injectors - $800

Fuel Pump - $300

FMIC - $400

Thicker headgasket - $200

Tuning - $300

+ labour if your not mechanically minded and unable to do the work yourself.

The thicker headgasket is recommended, you 'can' get away with the 9:1 comp with lots of boost BUT it really is on a knive edge, give it a little safety and drop the comp ratio slightly if you want to push 300rwkw on stock pistons/comp ratio.

OTHERWISE you will be up for a motor rebuild in no time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...