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Hi, Does anyone know what the normal current draw is on an R33 GTS-t with the engine off and all accessories (alarms, interior lights etc...) off?

I am currently getting around 220mA and think this is the reason why my car has killed 2 Exide evolution 550cca batteries in 2 years.

I have tried pulling fuses with an ammeter attached and find that the current draw drops 220mA to 130mA when the main 63A fuse is pulled, the alarm is drawing about 30mA when not activated, all other fuses don’t seem to drop the current draw by that much??

I am currently getting the alternator checked out as It may not be charging to its full potential, although it is getting 14.1 when car is cold and 13.9 when car has warmed up.

Does anyone have any other ideas? As this problem is really annoying as I cannot leave my car for more than 3 or 4 days without starting it or the battery dies.

Thanks

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Yeah ive got the same problem. leave the car for a week or so and the battery dies. ive gone through two batteries in as many months. my alternator is fine and i dont have an alarm or immobiliser or anything that would draw power while the car is off. just cant work it out. :P

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Found out now that the atenator is OK and with the doors locked current draw drops to about 150mA and then drops to 80mA with the Ignition fuse pulled.

My work commodore pulls about 10mA when everything is locked and off so 150mA still seems high??? Does anyone have any ideas?

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Yep, The reason the Alt will read 13.9V when first started as it has to try and recharge the battery - and as the charge level of the battery rises - so does the voltage.

Charge Rates are acceptable from 13.4V up to 14.5V in new cars.

Common faults are like boot lights and glove box lights. But I would be more enclined to look at the possibility that the stereo may be hooked up to a constant supply - (can you manually turn it on with the keys out of the ignition?) or the alarm system has a internal fault - which can happen also.

Cheers

Sumo

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Sounds like you need to keep pulling fuses until you work out exactly where the current 'leak' is, and then work out exactly what components take power from it.

Is the main fuse under the bonnet? Have you tried pulling every fuse under the dash to see if it is a smaller one down the line which is causing the fault?

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