Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after reading the rules the other day i have registered an account myself i am the owner of this car !!!!!!!:

DESCRIPTION: 2001 model s15 200sx ,originally manual version +australian delivery car (NOT IMPORT)

fully engineered and rebuilt nissan 6 cylinder conversion fully legal in nsw ,massive turbo,custom front mount and fully manualised auto conversion with massive 4 grand stall convertor with transbrake,fully legal in NSW,full 4 inch custom exhaust ,pro ratchet shifter,autometer guages ,fully prepped for circuit and drag racing and just as smooth as a daily driver.

many spares including slicks(circuit and strip),front runners,mickey tompsons 26x 8.5

neat and very clean paint and immmaculate straight body runs on street slicks with 17 x 8 inch toyo r888 allround custom made coilovers with 2 sets of springs for circuit and drags,gtr r33 brakes conversion

this car has run 10.6 @ 128 mph with more left in it eg 10.2 -this car is the quickest street regoed 200sx WITHOUT NITROUS and all paper work to prove it,no more to spend turn the key and drive all day everyday

have the best of both worlds !!!!!!

owes in excess of $90,000 all mods professionally completed no corners cut !!!!!!!

NO TIME WASTERS OR DREAMERS please ,genuine enquiries only .please contact me PETER on 0404866622

PRICE:$50,000

car2.jpg

car1.jpg

car3.jpg

car5.jpg

car4.jpg

  • 6 months later...

$50k!!! far out... (it's worth it, though I'm trying to make it sound expensive) :)

Interested in a Skyline V35 + cash???

I had a 200sx before this skyline, and honestly, everytime I change from a 200sx, I regret it so bad.

Do you have original motor setup?

Edited by LEXREX

was that the 200sx that was at the syd power cruise?

did a massive power skid, was only just beaten by that lilttle datto ute from memory. it was nice to see a jap car take out all the big v8s

nice car mate and good luck with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...