Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I been searching all day on the limits of the stock BOV and can’t seem to find what I need. As I will be getting a high flow turbo soon, I am guessing the stock BOV won’t cope with boost levels above 14 psi? From my understanding the BOV sees boost pressure at the throttle body end (bottom part) as well as the manifold (top part) doesn’t this mean the valve should be neutralized? How come many performance shops state the stock BOV opens up under high boost?

My options so far:

- No BOV (though this will reduce the life of the turbo)

- GTR BOV (cant find any)

- Aftermarket Plumb back BOV

Will blocking the vent hole underneath the stock BOV help in higher boost applications?

Any advise will be much appreciated!

Regards,

Sarkis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151647-stock-rb25det-bov-limits/
Share on other sites

Just grab a GTR BOV... there are always some popping up in the FS section.

Or ring around workshops, for some reason people love to change them so places often have a couple lying around.

Also start a WTB thread, thats how i got mine... took 1 day :wave:

Thanks Nismoid..

Any idea to what boost level the GTR BOV can handle??

Cheers

I ran 24psi through a single GTR BOV (didnt use the second one)

And cars like Leewah's GTR has run over 35psi through the pair

Just having replaced my Rb25 standard BOV that was faulty with a GTR one I couldn't be happier. Haven't plumbed it back yet, but being bigger its actually quieter (not plumbed back yet), but then again my old one was only opening a little after it got bashed in. Anyhow, they're very strong and standard looking, I'd take one over some stupid after market one any day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.
    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
×
×
  • Create New...