Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I have completed the form and details and emailed a scanned copy to the email on the form.

So the DT will occur sometime after 5.30 from the prgram? What time do u suggest we come down?

Cheers.

Chris.

Chris - if you read the supp regs, scrutineering starts at 2pm, so you will need to be there around that time.

Also, drivers breifing is at 3.45pm and if you miss this, you wont be allowed on the track.

actually I did but obviously didn't undertstand them! Thanks for the clarification.

It will only be driver training entries that are $70

Timed speed entries are still $140

But if you have already paid $120 (previous DT cost) with the intention of only doing Driver Training then contact Clarissa - [email protected]

Does that mean with the $120 i paid, i still get times sessions after the driver training?

As opposed to just driver training for $70.

If you enter the driver training group you have the ability to take out a more experienced driver to show you the lines, braking points etc. The driver trainers are usually WRX Club members with lots of experience. All Driver training instructors need the approval of the clerk of course. As a driver trainer you will not be timed at any stage of the event.

If you have already paid $120 to enter the DT group contact Clarissa at [email protected] and she will be able to deal with it.

If you want to enter as a normal driver is will be $140 and all sessions will be timed. If you have been to calder before you will be grouped with cars with similar lap times to the one you state on your entry form.

If you have track experience (but have not driven at calder) a standard WRX with a good driver is about 1:10 so somewhere a couple of seconds either side of that should see you right depending on your car and your experience.

What happens if the event is rained out? Do you still go ahead with the day?

The clerk of course gets to make that call on the day.

But if it is seriously wet the day wont go ahead. A slight drizzle wont stop a track day. Plus it's way more fun with a little water - trust me!

If their is standing water the clerk of course will call the day done.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...