Bnr32 Dyno Run + Turbo Questions

[AndyStuttgart]

Hi,

I was spending hours in this forum, trying to gain some information about save boost limit with stock R32 turbos etc., I din´t quite find the answers I was looking for.

I certainly know how to use the search button, but like when I was looking to get some stock turbo compressor maps I just found posts about A/C compressors etc.

Something really confusing I found out were power ratings on stock turbos on different boost levels.

Many people here are talking about drivetrain losses of over 40% im 4wd mode, or that aiming at 200awkw is almost impossible without many mods.

So just to shorten everything a bit, I better just post a dyno sheet of my car with a Mines ECU mapped for 0.9 bar, with M´s intake without heatshield, 3.5" invidia full exhaust and catalic converter NOT removed.

Then you can tell me how I got all those number faked, or - what I would appreciate - how I could further increase my power output without replacing the stock turbos or intercooler...that I think can´t be as bad as people tend to say - I mean, a pressure drop of 0.3 bar above 6rkm?! Wake up...how should Nissan have stayed in front of the competition with this piece of shit then...if those shitty ICs weren´t replaced in race series.

Maybe someone even has got the compressor and turbine maps for me, I would be quite thankful for that kind of information

Cheers,

Andy

PS: I could also include a torque split curve or the protocol file I got, so everybody could get the Superflow tool to check everything interesting out by himself.

Edited January 14, 2007 by AndyStuttgart

[GeeTR]

Good son of rajab, you've traveled a long way my friend.

For starters the "SuperFlow" dyno that you’ve used, had printed out a graph not many are familiar with, are you able to annotate back to English what the scales and values mean?

Max Boost - It has been covered plenty of times, and usually comes down the size of ones gonads. BNR32 ceramic wheels, have been known to pop at 12psi, been known to go strong at 16psi+ for years; how yours will fair depends on age, condition, previous owner etc etc. If you cant afford any $$ hassles at the moment, i would stick to around 10psi (personally)

AWD Loss - 20-25% for Engine >> RW loss, then maybe 4% for RWD >> AWD loss is I think, accepted. I rekon your package would be about 220-240 rwkw’s on a Ozzi dyno (Dyno dynamics)

As for increasing power with std turbo’s… depends on how much extra your after. Anything worthwhile, your going to have to change them.

Intercooler – Sorry bra, most ppl praise the stock GTR coolers, are you saying you’ve measured a .3bar restriction above 6000rpm?

Sorry cant help with stock turbine compressor maps.

Good luck man, hope you whoop many a Beema

Edited January 15, 2007 by GeeTR

[gazza750]

200 aw kw should be easy with stock turbos on 9psi

i have a mines ecu on mine and on stock boost with turbo back zorst and pods its running 196.4 kw @ all 4 wheels i havent had it on dyno since i put boost controller in but am hoping for about 210 -215 @ 14 psi

thats the sort of dyno readings we understnd over here lol

[AndyStuttgart]

For starters the "SuperFlow" dyno that you’ve used, had printed out a graph not many are familiar with, are you able to annotate back to English what the scales and values mean?

I will do that later, and try to get those scales into PSI etc.

Max Boost - It has been covered plenty of times, and usually comes down the size of ones gonads. BNR32 ceramic wheels, have been known to pop at 12psi, been known to go strong at 16psi+ for years; how yours will fair depends on age, condition, previous owner etc etc. If you cant afford any $$ hassles at the moment, i would stick to around 10psi (personally)

I thought about installing the AVC-R black edition I jsut got, and setting the boost to about 15.5 psi from 3,5krpm to about 6krpm, and letting it drop to about 13 psi at rev limit (8,5krpm).

Do you think this would be ok since I have lower boost at higher revs?

As for increasing power with std turbo’s… depends on how much extra your after. Anything worthwhile, your going to have to change them.

Tubbies should remain stock as this R32 is going to be sold when it´s street legal - there aren´t that many Skylines over here yet

For upgrades I still got my (side impacted) R34 GTR that will only get Germany´s finest engineer ideas to make it a real rocket, after it´s repaired *g*

Intercooler – Sorry bra, most ppl praise the stock GTR coolers, are you saying you’ve measured a .3bar restriction above 6000rpm?

Not by any means I think that there is such a drop, when you take a look at the boost curve you can see there is nothing like it in my dyno sheet - I just got this information from some thread in this forum that there should be this obvious boost drop above 6k...

Good luck man, hope you whoop many a Beema

As long as they´re not turboed - for sure

[AndyStuttgart]

Looks like I can´t change the units in my dyno chart - sorry...

But I´ve got two new questions, would an water injection help out to make the ceramic exhaust wheel live longer under higher boost settings?

And would two R34 GTT turbos fit an RB26, has somebody already tried this?

[GeeTR]

G’day Andy,

For the graph – even if you cant get the actually graph changed, can you find out what the right and left hand column is, and what UNIT of measurement its in? Surly for it to be useful to yourself or your tuner, one of you must know – at least then I can roughly translate it, as now, I’m clueless.

I believe the wheel falls of due to excess heat, so limiting impeller RPM in the higher rev ranges would help… though still no safe guard, as they’ve still been known to fall off at your “low” 13 PSI setting.

Water injection alone (without the usual winding of ignition and leaning of mixtures) would help I would think… but like my previous analogy, you can use both hands to cover em, but in reality that penalty ball is going to f-cking sting if it hits you

Considering your selling the car, do you really wanna fork out for a replacement turbo, labor (if you ain’t handy with the brandy) and maybe a dud motor

Id say two tahbins, originally meant for 2.5 on a 2.6 is going to be mighty laggy.

Yah, I rem going through a German / Swedish (?) workshop site 6 months back, with a few 1000hp turbo V12 BMW’s. There’s a few 700HP E30’s here in Oz. I’ll rest on the fact, they are all RWD hehehe 

- M

[GeeTR]

Sorry, completely off topic, though its all bout combustion motors yeah?

Found those video on a volume, thanks goodness for indexing >> http://www.vsmotor.no/en_videos.html

- M

[AndyStuttgart]

For the graph – even if you cant get the actually graph changed, can you find out what the right and left hand column is, and what UNIT of measurement its in? Surly for it to be useful to yourself or your tuner, one of you must know – at least then I can roughly translate it, as now, I’m clueless.

Left unit is kilowatts, right is torque in newton metres.

So for the torque, compare the red line with the right column, for all wheel power check the brown line with the left column, as well for the blue line (flywheel kilowatts).

Purple line is boost in Bar * 100 (so it´s about 0.9 Bar / 13Psi).

Green is drivetrain loss (left column) in kW.

Orange is a/f ratio in lambda *100.

[T04GTR]

safe leval is usualy less that 1 bar.

avcr is nopt a very good boost controler. very tricky to get working well.

greddy or blitz twin solidoid are far better. and take very little time to set-up.

but having said that.. ive seeen bog stockl r32gtr turbos die on standard boost. (11-12psi)

[AndyStuttgart]

but having said that.. ive seeen bog stockl r32gtr turbos die on standard boost. (11-12psi)

I think what kills most turbos is stock exhaust with boost upgrade - too much backpressure in combination with excessive heat isn´t a good combination at all...

[alexk]

I think what kills most turbos is stock exhaust with boost upgrade - too much backpressure in combination with excessive heat isn´t a good combination at all...

i agree