Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah well mine is just about to shite itself. Having to start the car with a friendly tap with my starting stick (hit starter with breaker bar). Wierd it didn't show any signs of failing just happened at the shops on the weekend. So like someone said above any from a RB20 / RB25 / RB26 etc will fit but will it make a difference wether its manual or auto?

Having to hit it make make it spin is a direct pointer to the SM "poling" - the bushes at either end of the armature wear out and when current is applied the shaft moves sideways and jams diagonally hence belting it jolts the shaft back into a central position that allows the shaft to spin.

The moral of the story is, if the brushes etc are OK, you may be better off finding a sparky that can pop the casing and fit new bronze bushes. This will be a lot easier than trying to source a new / second hand unit and most sparky's will give a good warranty on the work done too, well worth the spend IMO.

Having to hit it make make it spin is a direct pointer to the SM "poling" - the bushes at either end of the armature wear out and when current is applied the shaft moves sideways and jams diagonally hence belting it jolts the shaft back into a central position that allows the shaft to spin.

The moral of the story is, if the brushes etc are OK, you may be better off finding a sparky that can pop the casing and fit new bronze bushes. This will be a lot easier than trying to source a new / second hand unit and most sparky's will give a good warranty on the work done too, well worth the spend IMO.

Yeah I've pulled it off now, am going to take it to a sparky tomorrow. When the problem started happening I would turn the key and there would be no sound at all and the clock on the dash would die. I thought battery at first but I've got a volt meter on my turbo timer and when turning the key it would still stay at or just below 12volts. And head lights weren't dimming either. Ended up just tapping it with a hammer and it would start but the starter sounded like it was struggling (like the battery was almost dead). And this moring had to do it again and when I got home nothing again, no matter how much I tapped it. But I couldn't even hear the solonoid clicking there was nothing (so I thought it must be that). When I got it out I just tried power to the solonoid and it clicked in and out with out a drama. Didn't try to spin the motor itself though so I'll see what the sparky says. My only other thought is the battery has had it. Has full charge lights aren't dim or anything but my not be cranking enough amps. When I got the car back (after a swap BACK) just a couple of weeks ago the battery died after just 10mins or so with the stero on, checked the levels and it was almost dry (took almost a full jug of water) but has been good for the last week or so, so maybe the battery is stuffed.

Yeah I've pulled it off now, am going to take it to a sparky tomorrow. When the problem started happening I would turn the key and there would be no sound at all and the clock on the dash would die. I thought battery at first but I've got a volt meter on my turbo timer and when turning the key it would still stay at or just below 12volts. And head lights weren't dimming either. Ended up just tapping it with a hammer and it would start but the starter sounded like it was struggling (like the battery was almost dead). And this moring had to do it again and when I got home nothing again, no matter how much I tapped it. But I couldn't even hear the solonoid clicking there was nothing (so I thought it must be that). When I got it out I just tried power to the solonoid and it clicked in and out with out a drama. Didn't try to spin the motor itself though so I'll see what the sparky says. My only other thought is the battery has had it. Has full charge lights aren't dim or anything but my not be cranking enough amps. When I got the car back (after a swap BACK) just a couple of weeks ago the battery died after just 10mins or so with the stero on, checked the levels and it was almost dry (took almost a full jug of water) but has been good for the last week or so, so maybe the battery is stuffed.

I found out the hard way that you CAN overfill a battery - mine died a few days after I'd topped it up right to the brim! Only out enough water so that it just covers the plates...

Oh, and take it to your local spare parts shop (one that sells car batteries) and see if they have a battery tester - my first replacement (the one I bought after the overfill incident) had a dud cell, so they exchanged it under warranty.

I found out the hard way that you CAN overfill a battery - mine died a few days after I'd topped it up right to the brim! Only out enough water so that it just covers the plates...

Oh, and take it to your local spare parts shop (one that sells car batteries) and see if they have a battery tester - my first replacement (the one I bought after the overfill incident) had a dud cell, so they exchanged it under warranty.

Yeah I only filled it enough to cover the plates, thats how dry it was. I don't really care which is causing the problem but now that I've got to the effort of pulling the starter off I kinda hope thats it....was a BITCH to get off and am guessing its going to be just as fun putting it back in. Just that one bolt right under the intake plenum. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that makes sense, thanks! I guess flogging these turbos in winter is more preferrable lol.
    • Bahahaha, bloody hell Greg. You've got bent and broken things, but instead, you're replacing perfectly good items. This story keeps getting more gregged!   Also, I'd 100% replace that reo if I were in your shoes, unless you panel beater is REALLY good. Even if you put another GTT one on there. Just because you've done so much nice body work lately, I'd say repair the body work fully  If it were more drift car spec, I'd be all "Hit it with a hammer and send it!"
    • There's a fair chance that my bushes are Nismo, because I'm reasonably sure that when asked the question (when putting the subframe into the car in ~2012) "What bushes do you want to run?", I'm pretty sure I would have answered "The stiff ones!". I had to put some silicone grease onto the GKTech inserts I jammed into them last week, because the bushes were quite resistant to having something jammed up their jacksies. So, I reckon you'll be best off doing Nismo + inserts. And, if I'd known you had PU bushes in the subframe AND PU pineapples, I perhaps would have said earlier that that's probably not a good idea. The pineapples are only intended to work with the stock type bushes, because those have a crush tube (which is what makes it end up looking like there is sloppy space in there - but doesn't, because the crush tube does make contact steel to steel) and the pineapples live in the space between the subframe's outer tube and the lower washer/bracket. But the PU bushes don't leave the space in the same way that the stock format ones do, and they do end up fighting for space. Order some bushes and collars and get to it.
    • Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is   Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking  and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.    
    • Why bother? Keep them under 1bar and be happy, I had it for 10 years and never had an issue. once you go beyond that the budget blows out fast and then keeps on blowing out 
×
×
  • Create New...