Jump to content
SAU Community

Got My Volk Rays Fzero Rims! Need Help Chaging The Colour

Leon.T

By Leon.T,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Leon.T Mentor

Leon.T

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I just my volk fzero rims on the weekend and turns out that the inside doesn't look so good with the car, so I'm gonna change the red to blue. Can someone give some hints or tips on the process? or should I take it somewhere to get it sprayed or something. I notice it's a bit difficult cos I cant paint over the words 'VOLK RACING'

100139.jpg

I've also did a search and some steps were

1. sand back the rim with wet and dry (you will tell the difference when its sanded)

2. dry them with a cloth and a heat gun or hair dryier to fasten the drying process

3. wipe the rim with wax and grease remover, to remove any grease left on the rim

4. mask up the tyre with masking tape/newspaper so you dont get any overspray on the tyre's

5. spray 1 coat of grey primer (makes the paint stick/last)

6. after drying with heatgun or hairdryer, sand back the rim very lightly

7. spray 1 coat of colour as desired (mist coat)

8. dry with heatgun or hairdryer

9. apply 2nd and final coat of paint (second coat should be heavier than first coat)

10. after fully dry, spray 1 coat of clear

and this is from SYLNE.

any hints and tips would be grateful thanks!

Silent Proficient

Silent

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey mate,

I really wouldnt attempt this on your own. your better of getting them professionaly done. You wont be able to achieve a great result from spray cans .

Edited by Silent
SLYNE Proficient

SLYNE

Posted
Posted
Hey guys I just my volk fzero rims on the weekend and turns out that the inside doesn't look so good with the car, so I'm gonna change the red to blue. Can someone give some hints or tips on the process? or should I take it somewhere to get it sprayed or something. I notice it's a bit difficult cos I cant paint over the words 'VOLK RACING'

100139.jpg

I've also did a search and some steps were

1. sand back the rim with wet and dry (you will tell the difference when its sanded)

2. dry them with a cloth and a heat gun or hair dryier to fasten the drying process

3. wipe the rim with wax and grease remover, to remove any grease left on the rim

4. mask up the tyre with masking tape/newspaper so you dont get any overspray on the tyre's

5. spray 1 coat of grey primer (makes the paint stick/last)

6. after drying with heatgun or hairdryer, sand back the rim very lightly

7. spray 1 coat of colour as desired (mist coat)

8. dry with heatgun or hairdryer

9. apply 2nd and final coat of paint (second coat should be heavier than first coat)

10. after fully dry, spray 1 coat of clear

and this is from SYLNE.

any hints and tips would be grateful thanks!

Depending on what colour your paint is, grey undercoat isnt always recommended.

i believe there are 3 primer colours grey/white/black

In your case i would use a grey or white undercoat depending on how light/dark the blue is, remember.. if you use a grey primer and your finished colour is a light blue might take afew more coats then usual to cover

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...