Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting alarm? $$$?

chopobo

By chopobo,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

chopobo Veteran

chopobo

Posted
Posted

i just bought an alarm

*edit* brand Invincible Super Duper unstealable car security system

details: under car flame thrower function

its a simple shock sensor alarm with all the standard gizmo stuff with remote engine starter

questions:

-how much am i looking at in getting it installed?

-it has central looking system, and looking at my skyline, the central locking only locks the passenger side, not the driver side. is there a way i can work around this or do i have to buy that crap that makes both doors look

-do i have any chance in doing this myself with little electronic knowledge....haha

and yes im poor, i want to find cheapest solution

but it looks like its gonna be expensive

any help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15202-fitting-alarm/
Share on other sites
akeenan Grand Master

akeenan

Posted
Posted

for the passenger side you can just get another motor fitted replace the one that is currently in there. These motors arent to expensive but i would buy one through the place you get it fitted at as ive had 2 motors replaced since my alarm installation. I'm happy to say they were covered by warranty. central locking motors are bitches and sometimes break as most of them have plastic cogs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15202-fitting-alarm/#findComment-309783
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

No probs with mine.. had to adjust it up a couple of times but otherwise fine.

So you have to actually use the key to unlock the drivers side? hmmm, doesn't that spoil the point of a remote immoboliser thingo dingo? I think it can be done by yourself or with some help - the main thing is just to find all the points you need to wire into. If its not skyline specific can be difficult.

Some will require pulling the door trims off, some the steering wheel guard cover, and some stuff routed thru into the engine bay for things like the alarm siren, etc.

This alarm will protect your car well because got a full sensors to protect body, windows and doors (Connected to door switch)

i still luv this engrish! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15202-fitting-alarm/#findComment-309935
Share on other sites
dAVE Grand Master

dAVE

Posted
Posted

okay - i would say if there is already an alarm in there its going to have to be removed... then the install, which can take a bit of time with things like remote start.

I would say your looking at around $180 including door motors etc. Just a guess tho. Dont forget most these guys charge by the hour and something like this will take maybe 4hours...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15202-fitting-alarm/#findComment-312038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • GTSBoy
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • joshuaho96
      My BMW 335i

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • cobo_11
      My BMW 335i

      By cobo_11 · Posted

      Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
×
×
  • Create New...