Jump to content
SAU Community

Aac Valve And Greddy Style Plenum?

BAMR33

By BAMR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

AWD2Go Contributor

AWD2Go

Posted
Posted

Forget the abrassive cleaning, by the time you fork out $500+ to clean it you may as well have bought the better manifold. I bought the knock off as well and spend about 14hrs cleaning the inside mine. You can get a better finish then the factory Greddy but the quality of the casting is no where near the same.

AWD2Go Contributor

AWD2Go

Posted
Posted

I went down to bunning and got a 12" shaft that fits into a drill (You may be able to join them???), and I bought some of those cheap grinding stone.

Previously I had the std SR20 throttle body on so I had limited access. When I changed the flange I had better access and spent a couple more hours cleaning it up.

I got better results in the last couple of hours then I did the previous 10-12 hrs.

Check this thread for some pics of the finished product http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?t=25248

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
Posted

i brought one of these, and are actually surprised in the quality, everyone was saying how shit the casting is, the quality of the casting as in strength etc (ie, no air bubbles and no cheap chalky alloy cast) is very comparable to the Greddy original i have fitted to a road car. You rub it back and it is quiete smooth with few 1mmx 1mm air pockets/ pitting... lucky if it is 1 every 50mm.

The finish is rough, but that is only cosmetic, 6 hours polishing and mine is smooth and shiny on the outside. another few hours with the Die grinder and some 30mm flap wheels cleaned out the intake ports,then i match ported them. used a flexible extension and cleaned as far into the manifold as i could

My STD fuel rail never bolted straight up, the 3 bolt holes fitted, but the two closest to the cylinder head did not line up, so i got a piece of 15mm flat aluminium and countersunk some capscrews to clear the fuel rail, bolted it down, and then taped the thread for the top two bolt holes (closest to head). Worked a treat, and the injectors have sealed nicely.

I sourced all the barb fittings required from work, and are working on plumbing it up at the moment, i will get some pics and a walk through of the process during this weekend. plus i will include a list of what hose barbs are required to plum it up.

Look yeah there is some more work with this, but after all you pay between $255 (SAU group buy) & $500. a few hours labour and the finish looks better than the std untouched Greddy. and i can only imagine it would flow very simular. (i am not taking the Original one off to get them flow tested either.. lol)

If your prepared to do some work, cheap front facing intake, as for performance, you will notice a little more response and a little less lag. i only got this one for the race car because i hate changing spark plugs and i recently face the usual Coil Pack issues...

AWD2Go Contributor

AWD2Go

Posted
Posted
can any1 who's installed one of these copies, please comment on how the installation went? and whether there was much power gained?

Mine lost massive power until I got the tune right again, and then I would say I broke even. What you need to bear in mind is that the different design is going to alter the characteristics of the engine. You will lose some bottom end torque but will pick up top end power.

I found that it made the engine less peaky than the factory setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • MBS206
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • MBS206
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...