Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got a 180sx that has been sitting the garaged for about a year or so ..

- Had old petrol in it ..

- Had old oil in it ..

Test drive - perfect - fine nothing wrong with it

Driving home - fine nothing wrong with it

Started to act up nearly on the way home for some odd reason, it starts shaking like a wrex in first gear.

Mods, just basic mods. Pod and thats it I think ..

What i've done to it since i got home

- Drained the raditor fluid

- Drained the oil

- Poured petrol in the car

- Changed the oil filter

- Poured the fuel injector cleaner liquid in..

Problems

Where you pour the oil in the engine, when you open the cap smoke comes out of it ..

The car idle's crazy, but when you start it up its fine, then starts going all wierd.

UPDATE:

well - when i start it up sounds fine and reverse and everything, but as soon as i put some presure on the go it starts shaking and stuff again. sometimes when i start it up it shakes, sometimes it doesnt. wierd stuff..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152049-180sx-idles-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

sounds like one of your coils is f**ked, which is making it run on less cylinders, my 33 did this after i washed the engine bay ( i think i got one of the coils wet). i just tested it, and then replaced the coil and it was fine. im not sure as to what resistance an sr or ca coils are supposed to have.

  • 3 months later...

ahh this is happening to my mates car atm. r33 series 2 gtst. thought it was coilpacks as well.. we tried unplugging the coils one at a time to see which was the stuffed one.. but all of them were the same..

shoudl we assume his engine has dropped a cylinder?. the car is pretty weird.. it sometimes revs on its own lol.

shoudl we assume his engine has dropped a cylinder?. the car is pretty weird.. it sometimes revs on its own lol.

You would know if it had dropped a Ring/Cylinder...

Same thing was happening to my mates RB20 revs were constantly fluxuating...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
×
×
  • Create New...