Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Misfire Between 4500rpm And 5500rpm

pommyr33

By pommyr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

pommyr33 Apprentice

pommyr33

Posted
Posted

hey guys im new to owning a skyline and it has developed a misfire between 4500rpm and 5500rpm. i have changed the coilpacks and the plugs. i have read a few threads that say it happens in cold weather but mine is in all diferent temps. its only with my foot down past halfway when it hits full boost its stock apart from a 3inch turbo back exhaust and im on stock boost. can anyone give me some advice to try as its driving me crazy i cant get any power down as just as im getting the power it misses and its gone please help!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
r32matt Collaborator

r32matt

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem with my RB20DET. When i reached 4500revs my car would start popping until 5500revs. When you replaced the coilpacks did you use new spitfires or did you buy second hand stock coilpacks? I ended up taking out my coils and sealing them up with silicon. I also used NGK copper 0.8mm and took out my NGK Iridiums 1.1mm. Since ive done that I havent had a problem since. If you want to know how to seal up your coils and what silicon to use send me a pm :no:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

Yea nearly everyone i've met with an R33 has come across this issue at least once in their time owning one. Apparently with the higher boost comes the over fueling and the plugs can't keep up with the ammount of fuel being thrown in creating missfire. I think thats correct :no: anyone feel free to correct me...

And yea the common fix was the aroldite trick and the good type electrical tape wrapped around but those links will help 100%!

It helped me when i came across this problem... came on here and got the low-down on wtf was going on with my baby... couple hours later, gapping plugs taping up sh!t and wala! no more missn!

Also a form of engine management helps a lot aswell like safc or power fc (preffered)... Good luck dude!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
Yea nearly everyone i've met with an R33 has come across this issue at least once in their time owning one. Apparently with the higher boost comes the over fueling and the plugs can't keep up with the ammount of fuel being thrown in creating missfire. I think thats correct :) anyone feel free to correct me...

And yea the common fix was the aroldite trick and the good type electrical tape wrapped around but those links will help 100%!

It helped me when i came across this problem... came on here and got the low-down on wtf was going on with my baby... couple hours later, gapping plugs taping up sh!t and wala! no more missn!

Also a form of engine management helps a lot aswell like safc or power fc (preffered)... Good luck dude!

What you have said has pretty much covered all the symtoms.

On mine it was to much boost for the map sensor, i would reduce the psi and see how that goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
There is a map sensor in R33's now? Awesome.... when did they get that?

Well thats what my mehcanic told me, that my map sensor was set at 19psi and that i was running 21psi, so he reduced the boost. ???????

Link to comment
Share on other sites
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

On a stock R33 there is no MAP sensor, Air/Fuel is done via the AFM near the airbox. A MAP is another way of handling Air/Fuel calculations, it is not a boost control device. I think there was a simple misunderstanding is all :)

Side Note: 19psi?! Geez! What power are you making and on what turbo!? Feel free to respond via PM as not to hijack this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

It could just be one of your coil packs causing the problem. if you replaced them with splitfires then i could be wrong. you cannot see the cracks i found so i just taped them all up and it ran fine. I did have my plugs re=gapped to .8mm though, also could be runnnin hella rich with std ecu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      Garrett G-XRace Range

      By Butters · Posted

      Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • Butters
      RB gearbox options

      By Butters · Posted

      If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • dbm7
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Nismo copper mix twin “pull” pedal height engagement

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
×
×
  • Create New...