Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahaha ok :(

Ok so i dont really care about flutter, a little flutter wouldnt bother me but thats not what im after, i just want a tighter, bit more aggressive bov sound. So suits the car better. Im sick of the simple woosh of the stock one. I want it to have a little punch. But nothing TOO crazy.

Greddy plumb back or SSQV?

lol

there is a diy/tutorial on how to tighten the stock bov. you put a screw in one of the holes, but i never really looked into it. if you want it to go off tighter, thats exactly what you have to do; tighten it up. if all the air goes through quicker it will have to be more forceful and louder i guess.

Gtr ones do fit, but they may not be much different. i'm running a BOV from an r34, but my airbox is damped so i dont get much noise (plus exhaust is too loud)

it only flutters if you lift off to make it flutter in that situation, used to do it in my hks one, a light lift off and reapplication on the freeway and chuchuchu.. a normal gearchange and tss. a flutter occurs when the pressure let off is not enough to pop the spring in the bov, so air chugs through the compressor

I have the GFB Stealth FX

When it is on plumb back mode it is far louder and deeper sounding than the stock BOV was...but that difference may come from the fact that I was running 12psi with the stock one and now I am running 22psi so it is actually passing alot more air?

Jeffworld2 and i played around with some things using my stock bov and we had it fluttering and all that, but as i said before, i dont care about flutter. Infact i'd prefer to have none now after experiencing it first hand. It's simply gay. What i want is just a normal blow off noise but instead of a loose wooshy sound i have now, a more punchier kinda sound. Follow?

Edited by Xizor
instead of having the a/m one switch to plumb-back or atmo, totally block the polumback one and you will have no issues. if you want flutters, just put a blanking plate on the stocker your pod will do the rest.

Good way to make your car stall when you pull up at the lights :/

So the GTR one is not plumb back by default? Is it easy to do?

Yeah they are plumback, but my RB25 was made to be atmo for no reason... so I'd need some pipe and a t piece adaptor or whatever to set it up plumback, if you're replace a stock rb25 plumbed back bov, it will attach just fine afaik.

how exactly? it would be the same as running no bov, it will not make a sound (will flutter through pod, but no woosh) and cannot cause any issues other than perhaps overfuelling on gear changes as air flutters out through the afm instead of being recirculated. only when the valve is opened to atmo will you get a woosh.

i had an hks ssqv on my 33 since it was delivered from japan, never had a stalling issue. its all about setup and the spring strength. i have since run without bov at all for a week and now run stock BOV from an R34GTT, but its the same part really as stock 33.

if you don't understand what i was trying to explain in that post, don't reply, or if you do reply like XIZOR did

jeff i dont have the slightest what your on about with most of that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...