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Hey peeps

It appears ive managed to delete some settings from the Power FC by wanting to have a look at them. (IDIOT)

So what i did was reset the power fc and enter the timing/injector values into the tables again (took forever...) but the engine light is still on and the car is still mis-firing abit.

This seems to of happened due to the 'airflow' section which is set on Power intake (100% for all voltage..).

Can ANYONE give me a run down on what could be happening here as the soonest i can get it tuned is early next month due to being booked out :D

Car has air filter, intercooler and full exhaust for referance.

Helppppppp lol

Regards

Jaz

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Thats what i thought but i reset the power fc and it ran rough. re-entered old ignition/injector values and its not really much smoother....

Im 110% it has to be somethin to do with that as i messed with it after a drive lsat night and it didn't start up properly since then :D(((

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Can any of these settings cause a problem?

Airflow - unsure where to put it, its currents on Power Intake, was on R34 Normal and made no real difference.

Injector settings are all at 100%

Accel settings are all standard from the reset aswell as the rest (cranking/water temp/rev/idle).

Anyone?? :D

Oh and the engine light has come on aswell (another indication towards airflow meter problems?).

As i said there is certainly nothing loose etc in the engine bay as it drove home fine last night and started sh*t after id accidently been through the settings list below.

post-7888-1169126874.jpg

Edited by jazza08
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Well that solved the engine light. Any other settings that the Power FC has on that i could turn off that may make this problem go away?

I can say driving it that it runs most smooth on R34 Normal. It still mis-fires when you are driving and won't boost very happily at all but on light throttle its OK, the other options seem to make it run abit worse.

Edited by jazza08
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Well that solved the engine light. Any other settings that the Power FC has on that i could turn off that may make this problem go away?

I can say driving it that it runs most smooth on R34 Normal. It still mis-fires when you are driving and won't boost very happily at all but on light throttle its OK, the other options seem to make it run abit worse.

sweet one down,

is the Air Flow meter the std one or a bigger one?

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Ok... it seems the extreme load points (ign & inj) on the car aren't tuned, ie the values on N19-20 and L19-20 are fairly standard. If i was to put an 80-90% input on the airflow settings maybe this would move the map into the 'tuned' area? I can't get home to test this until 5pm but techincally i would of thought it would of ran ok up until the top end (where these load points are). So maybe thats not the answer...

Even if it was a bigger afm, it should of run OK when i seleted that option? It only seems to make it worse.

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you dont have to use all of the load points, ie: row 19, 20 etc dont have to be used. entering lower % figures will shift the load up the map, ie row 16 would come out as row 13 as an example if using less % correction

this will affect both AFR and IGN timing so be careful and make sure thats really what you want to do (it sounds you dont want to do that)

has it been tuned? is there somethign wrong ?

whats the problem you are trying to solve?

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The car just majorly mis-fires when you try to put load onto it, at idle its fairly ok. Basically it will pop and stutter etc quiet abit, and if u try to come onto light boost it will become 10x worse. So im guessin either the airflow has been messed up or maybe some injector settings (inj map has been tuned).

Basically after driving it i turned it off, went to look at each power fc setting not knowing when you move one it changes it and you loose the last one (idiot as i said before i know). Then when i started the car in the mornin it was stuttering all over the place, ive re-set the power fc and put the ign/inj values back in and its better but still not running properly at all...

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Ive checked the obvious cooler piping etc but can't find anything..

Plus the car was running fine, turned it off, played with power fc and in the morning it was running very rough which indicates it must be the power fc?

I will triple check all the piping and engine etc when i get home i guess

Do the settings in ACCELER do anything?

Edited by jazza08
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Car was tuned properly and ran very well until i looked at the settings.

Peak knock levels used to be around 16-18 when pushin the car hard, so it was tuned safely aswell.

Previous owner told me its a standard afm just then. Should that then be run on standard r34 or power intake (as it has a pod filter)?

Edited by jazza08
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speak to your tuner, most of them keep the dat file from your tune on their laptops, he might still have yours and be able to reload all the settings from before you data init. the unit.

if he is nice it wont even cost you, so give him a call.

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