Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Once you can get to the boxes under the dash you can remove them individually. From the left is the blower then the evaporator then the heater core. Remove the evaporator first (in the middle) and separate the box so check it for leaks/oily stains. On reassembly make sure you get some new foam to seal up the joins of the boxes from clark rubber. If you dont have a leak in the evaporator take a look see at the heater core. Its harder to remove and harder to separate. There is a main flap in it (air mix door?) that runs thru the guts of it and took me awhile to realise on one end of it there is a small screw holding the middle of it together. So dont force it. There is a reason its not coming apart hehe

Deren

I've started to give this a go without removing the dash.

Any one have pics of all sides of the evaporator box?

The front half is seperating but its like the rear lower half is still attached by a screw.

argg

A/C evap doesn't need to come out. Just need to get to the heater core.

Fingers crossed I can remove the heater core without having to remove the a/c evaporator.

I did explain to you that there is a screw holding it together....To do any work on the boxes you gotta remove them first...

The evaporator deffinately needs to be removed to get the heater box out. Keeping in mind before you remove any of these boxes you gotta disconnect the lines connected to them from the engine bay side so u can pull them thru. While your there you may aswell remove the blower box as it'll give you more room to manouver the heater box (prick to remove with body reinforcement still in car) The blower box is only held in by 4 nuts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
×
×
  • Create New...