Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

RB26, JB clutch and stock flywheel

- Car has firm (but not overly hard) suspension

- Bit of a resonance issue at cruising speeds (from exhaust)

- Shifter will pop out of gear after about 5 min on the highway, or bit earlier if the road is a bit rough

What should I start looking at to fix?

Cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152427-shifter-popping-out-of-gear/
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
If it happens when you back off more than likely you have a worn gear ( the one that pops out)

mine pops out of the tops gears, i have removed the gearboot and it helped for a while, but it still does it does that means the gears are destroyed? it maybe the 300rwkw goin through it though lol....

Yer you'll be looking at replacing the synchro hub assembly mate...won't know for sure until you pull apart the box but those are the symptoms that usually go with it. In a way it's good because there's no bullshit bandaid solution like using a different grade oil to silence problems, forcing you to repair it properly hehe :D

Bout $1000 to recondition it mate, plus the labour of pulling the gearbox out / installing it again. Oops, I just realised you aren't the OP that I originally addressed my questions to lol. Same problem anyway...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
    • And, given that you're in NC, go buy an LS7 or something equally sweet and piss that crappy old RB off. Or call up Wesley Kagan and get his help putting a Merc V12 into it.
    • Do a compression test, and a bore scope on the cylinder that lost parts of the plug. Chances are, that cylinder isn't so happy anymore...
×
×
  • Create New...