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Dear all,

Anyone know what the strut bolt torque spec (how much I should torque it when screwing it back in)?

(the one you take off to install a strut brace?)

I've been trying to find the information before I unbolt/unscrew it.

These ones:

strut.jpg

Thank you.

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If you snap that bolt using a spanner, you must be a muscle man.

Just use a spanner of the correct size - 13mm from memroy, do it tight with the spanner, and you'll be right. Just be sensible. Like do it tight with the 13 mm, not f**k off tight.

You'll have a problem overtorquing if say you used a breaker bar or something, but generally, you'll be fine.

The tps bolts are different - they're a small bolt.

Okay, I've done it for 35 ft-lb with a torque wrench, should be good.

Took two and a half hours to install the engine damper, that engine lift plate (whatever it is called) bolts are hard to unscrew and tighten, trying not to disconnect anything.

i snapped the rear strut bolt when tightening it after installing my rear strut brace.. so its not unheard of

costly exercise to source a new strut top asap to get the car back on the road...

Waz, how tight did you do it? Like just reasonable? Or crazy tight?

What did you use to tighten it? a spanner? or a breaker bar?

I've found, after a while, you get the hang of how tight certain things should be. If you use a spanner, you can actually tighten it to within the torque spec. It's hard to describe, but you get the hang of it after you do it many times.

yeah i was doing it pretty tight but that wasn't the problem really

because it was a rear brace i was in the boot trying to use a spanner and ended up resorting to a ratchet but there's not much room to move the handle in there

and the problem came when i not only was trying to tighten it but was off balance and introduced some angle on the handle of the wrench causing the bolt to shear off!

my bad.. you learn form mistakes better than anything

  • 1 year later...

did this just before....however i induced no angle into it, and the bolt appears to have a failure caused by torsion shear (twisting shear in the plane of the thread). It was simply replacing the stock lock nuts, and was barely even tight which leads me to believe it was caused due to over tightening previously and this exercise threw it over the edge.

Anybody got any tricks to get her quickly back on the road?

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