Crank Shaft Timing Belt Pulley

[r33_racer]

yeh i thought we were talking about the timing belt cog that sits behind the harmonic damper, which is notorious for being a bitch to get off.

Everyother person bascially suggested using a puller...which would have worked great if it was the damper he was trying to pull off...unless ofcourse he tried Spools idea. Not to be rude towards him, but those cogs are hardened steel and they are hard to drill and id imagine naturally hard to tap, but definetely possible with abit of elbow grease.

[Evocoop]

yeh i thought we were talking about the timing belt cog that sits behind the harmonic damper, which is notorious for being a bitch to get off.

Everyother person bascially suggested using a puller...which would have worked great if it was the damper he was trying to pull off...unless ofcourse he tried Spools idea. Not to be rude towards him, but those cogs are hardened steel and they are hard to drill and id imagine naturally hard to tap, but definetely possible with abit of elbow grease.

I was never actually planing on drilling it. And i think Godzilla32 was a little confused. It's all good. It's off now and i'll be able to use it again. A tiny bit of heat is a amazing tool.

Thanks for everyones help.

[r33_racer]

atleast you got it off. Its great when things work out swell.

[kiwi32]

I broke an oil pump trying to leaver one off so in the end i cut it off with an angle grinder.

[T04GTR]

f**k.

nice

[Evocoop]

Ok now the pulleys off. Does anyone know if ya have to remove the sump to remove the oil pump from the crank or once the pulleys gone should it slide off without removing the sump . It's looking like the sump's gotta come out at the monent but that seens like a whole lot of work. Just thought i'd ask befor i get the shits and start pullin the motor out.

[wrxhoon]

Its sump out to replace oil pump.

Usually you replace oil pump when you do an engine rebuild so engine is already out . It can be done on the car but you will have to drop the subframe to do it .

I find it just as easy to remove the engine to pull the sump off but I usually do other things as well, maybe turbos , clutch etc... so kill 2 birds with the same stone .

I know others prefer to drop the subframe to remove the sump, each to their own I guess.

I may say I wouldn't just replace the oil pump, no point in doing it in my opinion, if you have a healthy engine let it be until she blows up then you rebuild and replace oil pump .

[Evocoop]

Its sump out to replace oil pump.

Usually you replace oil pump when you do an engine rebuild so engine is already out . It can be done on the car but you will have to drop the subframe to do it .

I find it just as easy to remove the engine to pull the sump off but I usually do other things as well, maybe turbos , clutch etc... so kill 2 birds with the same stone .

I know others prefer to drop the subframe to remove the sump, each to their own I guess.

I may say I wouldn't just replace the oil pump, no point in doing it in my opinion, if you have a healthy engine let it be until she blows up then you rebuild and replace oil pump .

thanks for that mate. The pump has died. That why i'm changin it out. Best i get started on that subframe then. lol.

[wrxhoon]

thanks for that mate. The pump has died. That why i'm changin it out. Best i get started on that subframe then. lol.

If the pump has died, what makes you think the engine ( bearings ) is still in good nick? I would at least pull the big ends off ( while the sump is out) and check them ..

[Evocoop]

If the pump has died, what makes you think the engine ( bearings ) is still in good nick? I would at least pull the big ends off ( while the sump is out) and check them ..

I'm not sure of that they won't be dead also. It's acutually not my car. It's a mates. I'm just helping him out. It was just esaier to write this thead in the first person than 3rd. My gtr's still fine.

But yes you are absolutly right and i will be checking them. He said he shut it down as soon as the light came on but I'm not confident that they'll be ok. I just don't wanna break his heart just yet.

[wrxhoon]

I'm not sure of that they won't be dead also. It's acutually not my car. It's a mates. I'm just helping him out. It was just esaier to write this thead in the first person than 3rd. My gtr's still fine.

But yes you are absolutly right and i will be checking them. He said he shut it down as soon as the light came on but I'm not confident that they'll be ok. I just don't wanna break his heart just yet.

Dead oil pump=dead bearings at the very least, just hope that the crank is still good so you can just replace the bearings. Even if shut it down a few seconds are enough to score the bearings.

[Godzilla32]

Yeah you'll have to excuse my confusion. I was thinking it was the balancer you were trying to remove. My mistake

I also apologise for saying the crank pulley and balancer are the same thing. My mistake, wasent thinking straight.

Deren

[The Dan]

Just a note, I know you didn't need the oil pump any longer but I thought I would mention that removing the lower timing gear using a coal chisel or lever bars is a very bad idea. Just incase someone reads this thread and decides to do it the same way....you WILL f**k the oil pump by doing it that way.

On a separate note....did you do an oil pressure test before pulling eveything apart? I would be inclined to think that the oil pumps in these cars don't usually just fail. Not saying it doesn't happen....just there are other more common problems that will bring the light on.

You should remove the engine to change the oil pump and if you don't....do not remove the main cradle. You will just be opening up a whole other bad can of worms if you do. In other words...take the engine out and do it properly.

[Evocoop]

Just a note, I know you didn't need the oil pump any longer but I thought I would mention that removing the lower timing gear using a coal chisel or lever bars is a very bad idea. Just incase someone reads this thread and decides to do it the same way....you WILL f**k the oil pump by doing it that way.

On a separate note....did you do an oil pressure test before pulling eveything apart? I would be inclined to think that the oil pumps in these cars don't usually just fail. Not saying it doesn't happen....just there are other more common problems that will bring the light on.

You should remove the engine to change the oil pump and if you don't....do not remove the main cradle. You will just be opening up a whole other bad can of worms if you do. In other words...take the engine out and do it properly.

We did an oil pressure test befor pulling everything apart. We put a guage into where the pressure sender goes. Took the plugs out and turned it over a few times and it didn't even put any oil up the pressure guage line that was clear plastic type stuff. Also an auto lecky mate checked the guage and sender. All working.

The motor is coming out this weekend and will be checking all the bearings.

Thanks for the input.

Coop

[proengines]

Pull the engine out of the car. There are 2 sump bolts at the rear of the engine, inside the bellhousing adjacent to the flywheel. It is possible to grind/drill the sump to get to the bolts but it just makes it a prick of a job. To get the sump right out you need to remove or lower the crossmember and you really need it right off to get it clean enough to seal it up again.

If you had the gearbox out to do a clutch or similar it wouldn't be too hard to do but if you dont, you will be doing 60% of the work involved in pulling the engine just to get the sump off. Add to this that sealing the sump up again will be a nightmare and getting the 2 rear bolts back in will require some telekinetic ability, you will save yourself a lot of grief by pulling it out.

The benefit of this is that if you do find any damage once you get the sump off you can easily remove the crank to repair it and the sump can be sealed and bolted up properly when you refit it.

Just for reference sake, if you drench the timing gear with inox/WD40 etc from the front and back and leave it overnight you will usually find it will just slide off without any damage. They get moisture between the gear and the crank and rust which is what locks it on. If this doesn't work, I drill and tap 2 M8x1.25 threads into the gear, 180 degrees apart and use a balancer puller to pull the gear off.

Greg.