Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks sweet..but your right, it's got to get lowered. Dont be conned into lowering the thing onto the weeds, it'll lose the ride quality and handling. I lowered my 32 GT-R a little, to around 350 from the centre of the wheel in the front and 340 on the rear and it looks lower than i thought it would. Good luck

not a fan of the r34 gtt wheels actually but i do like your car, looks nice and clean...

i lowered mine only 24mm with bilstein shocks on stock springs.. ride quality is like stock but it handles totally different now! plus, its still 100mm off the ground so its legal :(

I wanted 18s at the start but when i saw these at the price i knew that they would look stelth... and as for lowering i want mine as low as i can get it without coilovers( too much $$)..eg superlow kingys.

Raz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, well, mine were 31 years old last year when they finally got done. Started to leak a bit.
    • I've ordered a new fuel pump and plan to do all the fuel tank hoses at the same time. Those are the hoses I would rather not go on the road.
    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
×
×
  • Create New...