Jump to content
SAU Community

Z32 Afm

teazn_r33

By teazn_r33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Why is it going to matter if the MAF sensor is in backwards??

Does it not only read air passing over the hotwire??

Will air not still be passing over the hotwire??

The MAF sesor doesn't know its installed backwards, its still passing the same ammount of air over the surface.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152697-z32-afm/#findComment-2843981
Share on other sites
AWD2Go Contributor

AWD2Go

Posted
Posted
Why is it going to matter if the MAF sensor is in backwards??

Does it not only read air passing over the hotwire??

Will air not still be passing over the hotwire??

The MAF sesor doesn't know its installed backwards, its still passing the same ammount of air over the surface.

Not 100% entirely correct... If you look at the AFM housing it is not mirrored so there will be a flow difference both ways, but your definately on the right track, it is just airflow over a wire.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152697-z32-afm/#findComment-2845047
Share on other sites
AWD2Go Contributor

AWD2Go

Posted
Posted
The bosch z32 i have actually has the flow direction on it. A little arrow pointing ----->

That is to help mechanics that don't a clue. The direction of flow should be obvious to most people who have a clue, but it will still show a reading which ever way it is mounted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152697-z32-afm/#findComment-2845080
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • Duncan
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • GTSBoy
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...