Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

My advise is to get him a shit box for the first car we all know what we were like when we got our Ps BURNOUTS, DRIFTING AND RUNNING A MUCK. No use wreaking a good car let him learn in a 1000 doller r31 you can pic them up in good con for that. Then the future when he wants more power dump a rb20det in it

yer but he wants something that he can come on a car run lik mixed jap cars and not lik get laughed at!

1989-1992 Toyota Corolla SX or SX Seca. $4-7k nice sporty hatch or liftback, ultra reliable 1.6L 4A-GE 100kw of power revs to 6500rpm. ultimate first car. Lots of tuner parts available as well.

Comes in 3 Colours: Red, White, Gun Metal Grey (very rare only 1 in 10 were GMG)

1864492.jpg

heres a lift back in SA http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/deale...al&R=822657

Also known as a GTi from June 91 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...matchallpartial

This is how my old one looked.

post-32584-1169449075.jpg

Then the future when he wants more power dump a rb20det in it

Should read : Then the future when he wants more power det it

;)

Oh yer, tell him not to get attached and have big plans for it, because we all know its better to get a better car thats got the upgrades std (like a r32gtst) than if he tried modding a r32 NA (if he bought that to start)

Edited by Bl4cK32
yer but he wants something that he can come on a car run lik mixed jap cars and not lik get laughed at!

well if he can keep up with skylines in a shit box he wouldn't get laughed at! hahahah

what about a non turbo supra? the old school ones! something like this http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...|1&trecs=10

Edited by nos man

old model supra's non turb's are nice lookin and go pretty shit hot for a non turb.

ae86's have full street cred. but are pretty rare to pick up (so if ya can I'd go for this)

even for a first car I'd pay around 2k for an 84 rolla sedan manual, where he can go out thrash the pants of the thing and it wont die and he'll still have money for all those thing's little p platers want for attention, boomin stereo and small mods, double barrel webbers and that sort of stuff...

pulsars are pretty similar too but there front wheel...

honda CRX's aren't too bad and I think look sweet for a hatch...

guys he wants NON turbo and Rx7 is not a learners car

he WILL need to to be insurable with him driving im thinking 600-1000 /yr full comp

dont be sugesting 6cly supras and R31's its not really appropriate

4 banger twin cam the twin cause they love to rev i have a mate selling a 100KW Corrola soon for arround 4g's its very clean and just had the windows tinted the max it will go for is 5g but i think 4 sorry not sure its got standard corrola strut brace in the fron and he want to put sum 16 in rims on it before selling it

if your interested we can organise a look see

ask him what car he wants, if he doesnt know/care, get him a gemini or a 78 corolla like sinista :)

on a serious note

Must be Non-Turbo Celica

Must be a Jap Car Celica

Must be Kinda Sporty Celica 2dr coupe

Must be Nippy not Slow as Celica

Must be a safe and resonably reliable car Toyota

Must be $6000 or Under. 1990-1994 model

Edited by andz69

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...