Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

My advise is to get him a shit box for the first car we all know what we were like when we got our Ps BURNOUTS, DRIFTING AND RUNNING A MUCK. No use wreaking a good car let him learn in a 1000 doller r31 you can pic them up in good con for that. Then the future when he wants more power dump a rb20det in it

yer but he wants something that he can come on a car run lik mixed jap cars and not lik get laughed at!

1989-1992 Toyota Corolla SX or SX Seca. $4-7k nice sporty hatch or liftback, ultra reliable 1.6L 4A-GE 100kw of power revs to 6500rpm. ultimate first car. Lots of tuner parts available as well.

Comes in 3 Colours: Red, White, Gun Metal Grey (very rare only 1 in 10 were GMG)

1864492.jpg

heres a lift back in SA http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/deale...al&R=822657

Also known as a GTi from June 91 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...matchallpartial

This is how my old one looked.

post-32584-1169449075.jpg

Then the future when he wants more power dump a rb20det in it

Should read : Then the future when he wants more power det it

;)

Oh yer, tell him not to get attached and have big plans for it, because we all know its better to get a better car thats got the upgrades std (like a r32gtst) than if he tried modding a r32 NA (if he bought that to start)

Edited by Bl4cK32
yer but he wants something that he can come on a car run lik mixed jap cars and not lik get laughed at!

well if he can keep up with skylines in a shit box he wouldn't get laughed at! hahahah

what about a non turbo supra? the old school ones! something like this http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...|1&trecs=10

Edited by nos man

old model supra's non turb's are nice lookin and go pretty shit hot for a non turb.

ae86's have full street cred. but are pretty rare to pick up (so if ya can I'd go for this)

even for a first car I'd pay around 2k for an 84 rolla sedan manual, where he can go out thrash the pants of the thing and it wont die and he'll still have money for all those thing's little p platers want for attention, boomin stereo and small mods, double barrel webbers and that sort of stuff...

pulsars are pretty similar too but there front wheel...

honda CRX's aren't too bad and I think look sweet for a hatch...

guys he wants NON turbo and Rx7 is not a learners car

he WILL need to to be insurable with him driving im thinking 600-1000 /yr full comp

dont be sugesting 6cly supras and R31's its not really appropriate

4 banger twin cam the twin cause they love to rev i have a mate selling a 100KW Corrola soon for arround 4g's its very clean and just had the windows tinted the max it will go for is 5g but i think 4 sorry not sure its got standard corrola strut brace in the fron and he want to put sum 16 in rims on it before selling it

if your interested we can organise a look see

ask him what car he wants, if he doesnt know/care, get him a gemini or a 78 corolla like sinista :)

on a serious note

Must be Non-Turbo Celica

Must be a Jap Car Celica

Must be Kinda Sporty Celica 2dr coupe

Must be Nippy not Slow as Celica

Must be a safe and resonably reliable car Toyota

Must be $6000 or Under. 1990-1994 model

Edited by andz69

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...