Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My left highbeam points straight into the ground, even on its highest setting. On the lowest setting it just points even more into the ground (2 metres in front of the car instead of 5 I guess). All the other beams are spot-on, it's just this one that doesn't do what it's told.

I had a fiddle around with the bulb and I could aim it correctly if I held it at a funny angle, so it's possible that something's wrong with the mounting mechanism. It's very hard to work around there without pulling the whole light out, so I think I'll do that next weekend.

Just wondering if anyone else has had a bad headlight aim problem like this before and what the cause might be? Luckily the right high beam illuminates enough on dark roads to get by, but it is damned annoying having no left high beam!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15291-dodgy-headlight-s1-r33/
Share on other sites

JimX, my right h/light was screwed - the light pattern was all over the place. I actually changed the globe and it was much better. They also seem to be really sensitive to getting the globe in properly. For 5 bucks a new globe is worth a shot rather than new light? Hope that helps.

Ronin 09, good idea. I was looking at replacing the bulbs with whiter/bluer ones soon anyway (not actually tinted blue, blergh!) so I might do a bulb swap with one that I know is good to see if it's the bulb itself throwing the alignment out.

Woohoo! Thanks to the advice of Ronin 09 I managed to fix it without removing the headlight assembly OR resorting to the hammer :)

I took both globes out, put the highbeam one in the lowbeam socket. For some reason the light was now shining higher up than in the highbeam socket. Very weird indeed because I would have expected it to be lower if anything. So I adjusted it to the correct height and left it in there.

I then put the low beam globe in the high beam socket and it also shone higher. But now I could adjust it to normal height. So it's all good now. Very weird all over!

I'm still going to look at getting new blue/white globes, but now I'll know that if I can't get the alignment right I'll try re-mounting them and/or swapping them around a bit.

Great to hear it, JimX. My high beam still points prettu high, but thats ok because it doesn't dazzle anyone. Lemme know how you go with the globes; i recommended Bosch Silver Evolution globes in another thread - thats what i have. They give off an almost perfectly white light, with a very very slight tinge of purple at certain angles. The only reason why i would like to hear what you use (and how they look) is because these globes were about $150 from sonic racing before they closed down... although i got them from Hong Kong for like a third of the price.

I want to change my high beams, so keep us posted :)

I know what you mean...had my lights adjusted to standard height...not long after I try to take some of the bulbs out to get the part number so I could consider getting the white globes...

and somehow when I put one of the bulbs back in, it shines at a different angle...

I just assumed that the bulb isn't sitting in its seat flat enough...

will adjust it this weekend and let you know...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • At SMSP, I mainly see Hondas, M cars, A90 Supras and of course, plenty of Evos. Have not seen a single R32 ro R34 Skyline on the night sessions that I've been to. That's really saying something.
    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
×
×
  • Create New...