Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Planning to get the hicas locked out on my car, from what i've been told seems likes theres two options to go for (short of removing the whole system).

Just wondering whats better to get, just one of those standard hicas lock bars that seem pretty easy to source and work for most cars, or the tomei hicas lock kit, with the electronic module and the shims.

any info would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152920-r32-gtr-hicas-lock-question/
Share on other sites

The Tomei kit adds weight, but gets rid of hicas pretty effectively. Using the lockbar you can remove ~30kg of deadweight.

Warning light issue can be solved by cutting the sender wire on the hicas computer.

Lock bar is also the cheaper option I'm fairly sure.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93183

Do that ^^^^^ , with the warning light i pulled the light out of the dash if u are unconfindent about cutting wires

ok but i'm a bit of a noob, don't exactly have the time or the facilities to do ti myself, who can i get to do it for me??

The Tomei kit adds weight, but gets rid of hicas pretty effectively. Using the lockbar you can remove ~30kg of deadweight.

Warning light issue can be solved by cutting the sender wire on the hicas computer.

Lock bar is also the cheaper option I'm fairly sure.

OMG! 30KG! I am doing the bar for sure!

personally I went the tomei kit for a couple of reasons.

1. hicas had not bothered me too much. the odd uneasy feeling from the rear was sometimes off putting, but I dont think it was slowing me down too much either on or off track.

2. with that in mind I wanted something easily reversible.

3. it's neat

4. it's cheap

5. it's easy to install

6. no dash warning

7. no heavy steering

8. no fear of busted PS pump

as far as I could see the advantages of a lock bar vs tomei kit were.

1. decent weight saving.

2. ummm that's it.

so after weighing that up, the tomei kit was for me. it works fine. but lock bar is a good solution too IF done well.

i ripped it all out, ill say now its not 30 kg, ill weight it one of these days

Spoke with Ant Scali before I did mine and from memory it was a 26Kg saving on his 32R

Ok, so where to get it done, and how much would I be looking at?

Depends on where you live, If it was on the West coast I could help a brother out but i'm guessing your on the east sieeed so ??

Price... a couple of hours for an experienced hand plus sorting out the power steering pump + the lock bar ..dont know if GTRgeoff is fabing them at the moment. Cheap considering the results.

6. no dash warning

7. no heavy steering

8. no fear of busted PS pump

I agree that the Tomei kit is an easier solution, but these 3 points are very easy to avoid when using a lockbar.

6. Cut the sender wire from the hicas computer. Green with white trace line in bottom left hand corner of the smaller plug.

7. Heavy steering is caused by people leaving solenoids plugged in. I had someone come to me complaining about heavy steering, unplugged the solenoid and the problem was gone.

8. PS pumps only get busted when people block the lines off. The rear stage of the pump is trying to pump fluid that has no where to go.

I wrote a DIY on it a while ago, and have done it on 3 cars without a single problem.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=185697

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They usually get made by hand as part of any such swap.
    • Was planning on getting an R35 MAF and the adapter, should this be okay? Also any idea where I could get my hands on an intake pipe?
    • I mean yes, if you're starting from scratch on an unknown engine yes you don't need to be doing all kinds of math in the background but if you're doing relatively minor changes like AFM + injectors + boost up with some aftermarket turbos it takes quite a bit of math if you want to do something like maintain OEM fuel + timing tables but compressed and then a bit more load scale up top. I think I've spent too much time working on big engineering nightmares though so I'm a big fan of trying to constrain the scope of whatever work I'm doing as much as possible and trying to get it right before moving on. For example, a local owner just did the usual E85 + single turbo conversion to his R32 GTR and nearly burned his car to the ground doing some spirited driving up the local mountains. Turbine is unshielded and too close to the hood insulation. It's tough to balance "just get the project done" and "seemingly small details can cause massive setbacks I'm not willing to deal with".
    • No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator. Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.
    • Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?
×
×
  • Create New...