Jump to content
SAU Community

High flow turbo


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by DREMEN

Anyone here done this on their R33 GTS-25T???

i'm sure there are some out there.

Originally posted by DREMEN

Who did you get to do the work???

Depends on where you are, local/interstate workshop?

Originally posted by DREMEN

How much did it cost?

Largely depends on *see above response*, and also how much work you are doing.

Originally posted by DREMEN

What sort of gains did you make?

As mentioned, depends on how 'tuff' you want the original one to be rebuilt to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got my standard r33 turbo highflowed - did it a couple of months ago. I got it done with a lot of other work so i'm not sure how much it came to. Precision did mine (through Envy Imports located on the Northern Beaches).

My car hits fuel/boost cut if I increase the boost a little bit past stock, so I bought myself a new powerFC which will be tuned next wednesday.

I think B-Man has a high flowed turbo, but was more expensive and probably better than mine.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had my turbo high flowed at ATS in adelaide... Cost me about 2k from memory (2 years ago)...

They're good if you're just chasing an extra 20rwkw, but if you want to make a decent amount of power, just put the extra $$$ to a new turbo. The housings (comp and exhaust) are too small to make big power.

matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi DREMEN, we have a R34 GTT with a GCG hi flowed turbo on it, makes 260 rwkw. Cost a bit under $2K.

Hi skyr31, our hi flows from GCG have all had;

The compressor wheel replaced with a larger one

The compressor cover machined to suite the larger compressor

The turbine replaced with a larger one

(stainless steel replacing the standard ceramic)

The turbine cover machined to suite the larger turbine

A larger diameter shaft

Larger diameter ball bearings

All the rotating stuff micro balanced

New seals fitted.

So basically everything that wears is replaced, so it is almost like a new turbo. Much stronger with the larger shaft, not ceramic turbine and larger balls. Higher flowing due to larger turbine and compressor. Best of all everything bolts back up to the turbo as per standard.

There is also an upgrade path, if you want more power then they can replace the compressor cover with a larger one and/or the turbine cover. Much cheaper than buying another turbo, particulalry when you include the cost of fabricating parts to fit non standard turbos.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That does help sydneykid, you answered some of my questions in another thread not long ago, with a 3 inch zorst, bost, gtr cooooooler boost,pod adn maybe an afc i might make some decent power!! As long as i dont get hammered by an ss comme or a falcon i'll be more than happy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Sydneykid,

I found the price for High flow Turbo from the GCG web page. It's more than 2k. They have two stages.

XTRGTST-STG1 450hp rated $2250.00

XTRGTST-STG2 500hp rated $2450.00

Where can you can it under 2k? Through some dealers?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ken most of us just have sleeve bearing cores which drops the price down considerably!

The Ball bearing core is what makes it so expensive if you can afford a bit of lag then it may be a better option. The quality of the turbo is not affected :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi TT said, "GCG stage 1 hi flow turbo requires 22psi to make 450hp at the engine, as stated in a previous related thread."

And I said that's not quite correct in the "previous related thread".

We have one on an RB25DET that makes 260 rwkw at 19 psi. We also have one on an RB30DET that makes over 300 rwkw at 20 psi. On a properly set up engine it does not need 22 psi to make 450 bhp. On a badly set up engine it might.

The engine has way more to do with it than the turbo.

Hope that helps clarify

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi macka, when you post "The quality of the turbo is not affected" your not saying that a "sleeve bearing core" is as good as a ball bearing core are you?

Sorry, but you get what you pay for. Plus the prices that appear on websites are "Recommended Retail Prices". Ring up you might be pleasantly surpised, I quite often am.

Hope that helps some more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No sydneykid i think some guys get a bit frightened of the price...Thats why i suggested go for a sleeve bearing unit.

Ive never been able to fork out enough for a BB turbo in one hit just wanted to tell them there are other options..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dremen what sort of mods do you currently have? No point getting a Hiflow if the rest of your components aren't up to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...