Jump to content
SAU Community

Tassie Spotto:


grandmasterb

Recommended Posts

was a good day :-D very slippery first laps out and that wonderful comp lock up into T1 haha.

was good giving you a chase, would of chased a bit more but my car started playing up, think the diffs giving up on me lol.

yeah, next time. I was silly to go back out, brakes were not exsistant on the ride back! bloody hell those QFM pads are good tho, worked awesome down to the indicator! just orderd a new set + spare set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, next time. I was silly to go back out, brakes were not exsistant on the ride back! bloody hell those QFM pads are good tho, worked awesome down to the indicator! just orderd a new set + spare set.

yeah, my brake pedal is feeling a bit spongy now haha was good though, these simple EBC green pads have done 3 track days and 2 hillclimbs now, holding up well :-)

im quite surprised how well the R888's went!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch! Sorry to hear mate, hope your back on the road soon.

After driving home last night in rain with no front wipers....boy did I get a lecture when I pulled up out front of home!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

spotted my 33 not ideling & seeming to fuel up at around 4500 5000 rpm doesn't do it all the time tho im thinking afm? maybe igniter? as it has almost new spitfire coils any ideas? running around 13psi

edit if i unplug afm idles fine as soon as i plug it in wont idle

Edited by Autumn_180
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the AFM insidey bits where the bits actually solder onto the board, I've read it's a common problem for them to corrode and crack, the just need to be resoldered.

If you'd like a spare one to test I think I've got a spare one lying around because my R33 doesn't need one anymore.

Also my house mate is pretty handy with a soldering iron if does turn out your afm is broken.

How'd you go with your brake master cylinder problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

brough a new working one fitted it but the pedal is still soft theres no air in the lines or anything the fronts work fine but its like theres no pressure getting to the rear brakes

That would be good i can grab the space saver on friday so if its ok we can test that at the same time?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

spotted my 33 not ideling & seeming to fuel up at around 4500 5000 rpm doesn't do it all the time tho im thinking afm? maybe igniter? as it has almost new spitfire coils any ideas? running around 13psi

edit if i unplug afm idles fine as soon as i plug it in wont idle

just a heads up. if you unplug the AFM the ECU will run in limp mode so it will idle and do everything normally. ive seen similar issues before but it doesnt nessasarly mean its AFM.

ill swap your 33 for my 4 door now if you want to. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah i didn't know that thanks ill test it to be sure tho, any ideas what it could be?

I bet you would lol :) not selling/swapping this one

ill bring it down at the end of the month then. haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just a heads up. if you unplug the AFM the ECU will run in limp mode so it will idle and do everything normally. ive seen similar issues before but it doesnt nessasarly mean its AFM.

ill swap your 33 for my 4 door now if you want to. ;)

i found it will idle fine, but you try rev it and it will hunt and carry on like a spastic :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...