Jump to content
SAU Community

Clicking Sound at startup


GTST4G
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

has anyone ever had a clicking sound at startup, that lasts for approx 2 sec and then stops. I'm thinking its got something to do with the starter motor - maybe the shaft needs lubrication or something? I'm worried it may need a complete overhaul?

Any of you guys ever had a similar thing happen?

Cheers

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also get a weird sound, but it sounds like a different problem. Mine comes on after cranking it over and it has started. Sounds like something squeeking under the car, and I cant tell if it is coming from the front or the back! My only guess so far it that it is the fuel pump....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have this sound when I start it first thing in the mornings.

I crank it, it starts, then you hear click click.

I 'think' I know how not to make the noise. This morning I was running mega low on fuel - on the E mark.

So I thought I'd let the fuel pump prime the system well before I started her up.

I put it in the 'ON' position for about 5 seconds until the fuel pump stopped priming, then started it up. And there wasn't any clicking noises !!!!

I have no idea what the clicking is, but try doing the above before you start her up.

Worth a try.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wondering if it might not be a noisy lifter (RBs have hydraulic lifters, I think). Disappears because the oil pressure comes up to normal. Does it do it once the engine gets up to temp, say you stopped at the corner shop for something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Zahos

I also get a weird sound, but it sounds like a different problem. Mine comes on after cranking it over and it has started. Sounds like something squeeking under the car, and I cant tell if it is coming from the front or the back! My only guess so far it that it is the fuel pump....

yer i have the same thing, a very faint clicking noise on idle, i have no idea what it is

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a slight lifter noise when starting.

I began using a thinner oil (Mobil 1) and it has now stopped the lifter noise.

Also try doing an oil change after 2000km's with an oil filter and see if it helps - drop the oil while it is hot.

Then make sure you always do an oil change every 5000km's with an oil filter to prevent little gritty crappy bits getting in to the pump up hydraulic lifters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...