Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been stuck at home with a nasty case of sushi poisoning and have not been able to replace the diff myself so i have sent the shimmed centre along with the car to the good blokes at the diff place and will be picking it up finished on friday. an will be taking the car drifting on sunday so will be able to give good idea of how it works.

Cheers!

I have been stuck at home with a nasty case of sushi poisoning and have not been able to replace the diff myself so i have sent the shimmed centre along with the car to the good blokes at the diff place and will be picking it up finished on friday. an will be taking the car drifting on sunday so will be able to give good idea of how it works.

Cheers!

ahh man that sucks.

how much did u pay if u dont mind me asking? just getting an idea for wen i go to get it done so i know around about figure.

cheers

All in and done.

I paid $100 for the centre $22 for the shims and $200 to swap the centre over

if you already had an LSD you would only have to pay about $222!

or risk doing it yourself.

I haven't had a chance to really try it yet. I gave it a bit of stick on the way home but not enough to feel it. it drives like factory but feels like it does not under steer as much around corners.

the track on sunday will be the test.

Sushi is seriously nasty shit. These days, I see heaps of people eating it because they think it's healthy and good for them. When I tell them otherwise, they laugh at me.

Sushi:

contains a lot of msg

is usually not fresh and sitting there for god knows how long

Already has a decent amount of bacteria in it when it's fresh because of the ingredients

Anyways, back to your diff, it's awesome that you've had a go at it yourself. Now i'll know who to ask when I do mine :P

A few observations I have made so far.

A R200 Viscous diff operates on the principal of fluid viscosity. the viscous centre is about 2" wide and contains thick fluid and 6 rotating plates with holes. There are holes with splines for each driveshaft. the plates inside the coupling rotate at the same rate as the driveshafts L and R. as one shaft spins faster than the other the viscous fluid creates a viscous bond between the plates and applies rotational force to the other shaft thus providing an LSD effect. The key here being LIMITED slip not non slip. There is a finite amount it will slip and a finite amount it is able to slip.

Adding shims to the diff either on the viscous side or the carrier gear side will not make the total locking effect any greater than what the diff was designed to provide.

All you will achieve is adding more preload.

The preload serves 2 functions.

1. Provide the right amount or lateral movement to prevent excessive wear on gear teeth in the lsd assembly. Too much will cause to gears to bind and not rotate properly and too little will result in a noisy and short life for your diff.

2. Assist in providing frictional load the the assembly and help prevent backlash between the pinion and crown wheel.

So adding thrust washers does the following.

Increasing tension in the LSD centre by increasing preload by squishing the carrier, spider gears viscous coupling together. This will mean as there is more friction the assembly will rotate with less ease and lock both splines together until the preload is exceeded at which time the diff will open wheel for a split second until the viscous centre starts to limit the rate of slip

What does this all mean?

Yes adding washers in your diff will make it tighter until the preload is exceeded by force and then your shimmed diff will provide no more or less slip that a standard VLSD. In practice you will not feel the time between preload slip and viscous take-up it will just feel like mechanical LSD

You will shorten the life of the LSD assembly, crown wheel and pinion and produce more heat as the friction is energy and energy is transferred into heat.

So YES IT WORKS but will in the long term wear out your VLSD. I would guess you are looking at a lifespan of 30~40,000kms

I can now confirm that the car will leave 2 nice black marks that are both full and even when i drop the clutch. so the extra preload seems to have helped.

the car is also more predictable around a corner and you can put down more power and that means more acceleration. and when it does begin to slide it is more predictable and a lot more fun.

normal driving is fine. no clunk or shudder.

A good cheap mod and if done correctly you will gain a lot

yep 2 x 1.01mm shims. the LSD is now really good it is predictable and held up to 2 solid hours of drifting. it actually feels like a mechanical 1 way as it only locks on throttle. it locks on almost nothing only need about 10 ot 20% before it spind both wheels nicely.

If I was going to do it again i would use 1 x 1.01 and 1 x 1.3mm

Hi yogi000.

If you pull the centre apart you will find there are actually 2 shims. 1 either side of the assembly. I replaced both of them with 1.01 shims. the ones in my lsd were 0.74 and 0.71 and I am imagining they were bout 0.80 from factory. so they had both worn a bit.

I have a pair of 1.01 shims left over if anyone wants them for $20

If I was going to do it again i would use 1 x 1.01 and 1 x 1.3mm

any reason for this? does your drift track favor turning one way over the other? (i.e more left turns than right)

or am i missing the point completely?

The total load is only relevant to the sum of both shims. it dosen't matter if you use 1 bigger than the other it will lock the same left and right.

so removing 1 1.01mm shim and adding a 1.3mm wil just give more preload to both sides :P

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

I ended up shimming my diff.

I found corner exit/acceleration was excellent, always twin wheeled.

However.. Straight line acceleration still saw the diff spinning up a single wheel. Roll on the throttle in first and the left wheel would buzz up. In second when the diff was cold the left wheel would again buzz up.

But for drift etc its definitely a cheap worth while mod that works. Twin wheels predictably all the time.

The diff stopped clunking on sharp low speed turns after about 500km's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
×
×
  • Create New...