Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys and gals,

has anyone here purchased an Exedy Lightened flywheel? is there just the chromoly one or is there an aluminium one too? does anyone know how much they weigh and price as the website has limited info. shot off an email to them last week but no reply as of yet.

heres the link

http://www.exedy.com.au/catalogue-details.asp?id=38999997

stuck whether i should buy an exedy which is local(no waiting) or get a Cusco chromoly one of nengun (14day wait). anyone here running the Cusco unit?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153060-exedy-flywheel-info/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

sulivan whos a trader here selling exedy kits informed me that the flywheel is chromoly steel and weighs a little over 6kg which is what im looking at getting installed in the next few weeks.

exedy customer service is useless. i shot them 3 emails regarding the flywheel and hd cushion button clutch with no reply at all. maybe my questions were too hard to answer...pft

hahahha

yea im just assesing if its worth it... how much it set u back?

im lookin at the sports organic, i mean the fly wheel would be good on teh old r20 wit its poor form down low off boost, but ive herd its not worth the momeny for the verry small increase in performaqnce gains, i dont really drag race,

i am more downhill run old pac style,

cheers

brett

yeah im not expecting much but i figured while im doing the clutch ill do that also. i dont want it too light as id still like to keep some inertia so 6kg is good for me. the shop im going to is getting it trade for me around $600 gst inc. i could be a tight ass order from nengun and save $100bucks but then id have to wait for it. dont mind paying abit more for not waiting and domestic warranty.

Edited by (B1) MR_fanny

They are a solid one-piece forged chrome moly steel and for memory they are about 6.8kg (something around there) very good upgrade if you are looking into track/drag and also for drift.

Im pretty sure that EXEDY only make the one lightened flywheel (no other material) but i can check that out if you like (my brother is an EXEDY dealer) but it wouldn't be until Monday :happy:

(oo\__4Door__/oo) if you are just looking at one of these to help bottom end then i wouldn't bother personally. I take it you have a RB20 from your post correct??? Is it stock or mods (if so what mods) true you will notice a difference with the lightened flywheel but not enough with other upgraded other parts as well. For the money you would be better off installing a set of cam gears to help that bottom end/mid range :(

GMB

engine mods are just basic, zorst, fmic, pod wit a box, yea nahh that was i was sayin for the money u can get alot better gains, im goin to get the stocker machined, yea i like the idea of the cams ha ha, it was just wile it was down i thought id investigate, cheers thhough

brett

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...