Apexi Pfc Boost Control Problems

[Robo's]

Reset my PFC and switched the boost controller on to a low setting and put the foot down and bang, well over 20psi heading towards 30psi. Turned the controller off and i have a steady 16psi. Switch it on again, and up it goes again, WTF, my setting is on 0.5 with 44, the lowest i have ever had it.

I have checked the wires and seems to be ok, the intercooler piping is going into the COM line and NO goes to the actuator.

Any ideas?

Edited January 23, 2007 by Robo's

[GTshortie]

Dude,... you got all the lines mixed back the front.

COM line should goto wastegate actuator

NO line should goto intercooler piping.

check your installation manual... but thats how my avc-r solenoid is hooked up and it works fine. i was playing with it last night finding a better mounting position.

[Robo's]

Dude,... you got all the lines mixed back the front.

COM line should goto wastegate actuator

NO line should goto intercooler piping.

check your installation manual... but thats how my avc-r solenoid is hooked up and it works fine. i was playing with it last night finding a better mounting position.

Thanks mate, you are totally right!!

[Pauly33GTS-t]

buahahha... god.

[dangerman4]

Reset my PFC and switched the boost controller on to a low setting and put the foot down and bang, well over 20psi heading towards 30psi. Turned the controller off and i have a steady 16psi. Switch it on again, and up it goes again, WTF, my setting is on 0.5 with 44, the lowest i have ever had it.

I have checked the wires and seems to be ok, the intercooler piping is going into the COM line and NO goes to the actuator.

Any ideas?

why do you wanna drop the boost?

just point it in a straight line.. you'll be right.... lol..

so hows the new turbo going?

have you had a chance to chuck her on the dyno?

cheers

Darren

[Robo's]

why do you wanna drop the boost?

just point it in a straight line.. you'll be right.... lol..

so hows the new turbo going?

have you had a chance to chuck her on the dyno?

cheers

Darren

hahah, saw 28psi and it was still rising so i thought i'd back off. So disconnected it and was running the adjustable actuator arm and ended up getting a steady 18psi. Didnt have anymore rod left so couldnt raise it more. Fixing it tonight and back for a bit more testing tonight. I have a AFR monitor in the cabin, so my mate is doing runs whilst i adjust the mixtures with the PFC, so far i've got everything in the 11's under full throttle. Hopefully get boost into the low 20's tonight and see how she really goes.

The 2535 definately had more bottom end but this makes more top end, spins to 7000 easily. Still making a good 18psi in the low 3000rpm mark which is great.

[nizmo_freek]

Hey "Robo's"

Just wondering if you can confirm for me that the "type 1" power fc boost controll solenoid plugs straight into the gts25t standard boost controll solenoid wiring loom?? i just want to confirm that before i buy one, im pretty sure it does tho.

Cheers

Edited January 24, 2007 by nizmo_freek

[Robo's]

Reversed the lines around and still got troubles. PFC is set on the lowest and im getting way too much boost, obviously the valve is not opening. Must getting power there as i can turn the boost off and on and its working, but soon as i turn the PFC on, it boosts too high. Maybe the signal is wrong from the boost sensor but i am getting readings from it

Any ideas?

[paulr33]

check out sensor SW check, what does BOST look like?

what does MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BOOST look like?

[Robo's]

check out sensor SW check, what does BOST look like?

what does MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BOOST look like?

Sensor check reads 0.9 V sometimes upto 1.0v when your driving.

Channel 1 boost hasnt changed, all looks good, reads boost etc.

[Robo's]

Took the Sensor valve apart and all looks good, nothing sticking , for some reason there is no control on boost. Nothing is opening the valve once the soleniod is shut. I wonder if its a sticky actuator arm, but then why does it open with the controller turned off.

Got 20psi into it last night and its a rocket!!!

[grigor]

PFC is set on the lowest and im getting way too much boost, obviously the valve is not opening.

You do realise you can't get less boost than the wastegate actuator spring pressure don't you?

[Robo's]

You do realise you can't get less boost than the wastegate actuator spring pressure don't you?

Yes, im getting boost with no controller using just the actuator. But with the PFC im getting way too much, like 25psi and rising, sounds like the wastegate is not opening at all. I have to back the throttle off.

[Robo's]

Damn, still no luck

[saliya]

Damn, still no luck

Hey,

The Apexi solenoid has three ports; one common (labelled COM), one normally-open (NO) and one

normally-closed (NC). On my solenoid, it looks like this (ignore the dots, I had to use them as spacers):

COM = =||== NC

................||

...............NO

Mine's inline between the pressure signal and the wastegate, so I use the COM and NO ports (in my

setup the controller closes the valve to stop the gate seeing pressure).

If you connect it as a bleed (tees off the signal -> wastegate line) you would connect COM and NC

(the controller opens the valve to take pressure away from the gate).

Since I don't know which configuration you have, I can't recommend which connection to use

But I'm guessing that switching between the N ports will fix your problem - that is, if you have

one line connected to the NC port switch it to NO; or if you have it connected to NO switch it to NC.

Leave the COM line alone...

I'm guessing this because when you activate/deactivate it boost changes - so you _probably_ have

it electrically OK and it's just the air lines that are backwards.

Regards,

Saliya

Edited January 29, 2007 by saliya

[Robo's]

Hey,

The Apexi solenoid has three ports; one common (labelled COM), one normally-open (NO) and one

normally-closed (NC). On my solenoid, it looks like this (ignore the dots, I had to use them as spacers):

COM = =||== NC

................||

...............NO

Mine's inline between the pressure signal and the wastegate, so I use the COM and NO ports (in my

setup the controller closes the valve to stop the gate seeing pressure).

If you connect it as a bleed (tees off the signal -> wastegate line) you would connect COM and NC

(the controller opens the valve to take pressure away from the gate).

Since I don't know which configuration you have, I can't recommend which connection to use

But I'm guessing that switching between the N ports will fix your problem - that is, if you have

one line connected to the NC port switch it to NO; or if you have it connected to NO switch it to NC.

Leave the COM line alone...

I'm guessing this because when you activate/deactivate it boost changes - so you _probably_ have

it electrically OK and it's just the air lines that are backwards.

Regards,

Saliya

Thanks Saliya i'll give it a try. Only problem is , i worked properly with my old turbo just not with the new one and i havent changed the lines, but anything is worth a try.

Cheers

[saliya]

Thanks Saliya i'll give it a try. Only problem is , i worked properly with my old turbo just not with the new one and i havent changed the lines, but anything is worth a try.

Cheers

Hey,

if that's the case: it _was_ working properly AND all you have changed is a turbocharger AND all the other stuff's

been done AND actuator pressure is 16psi then something's probably been broken during the changeover You

didn't go from int to ext gate, did you?

Check the boost reading with a different (known-good) gauge.

You mentioned that your duty cycle is the lowest it's ever been - 44 - but doesn't this go down to 20?

Turn it down as low as it goes and work up. Mine runs on 36 for 1kg and 40 for 1.2kg.

You said that on your sensor check boost was 0-1V; mine's 1.97V with the ignition on but not started. Check that

when displaying boost on the hand-controller the figure follows what you see on your gauge. Maybe the line to the MAP

sensor's kinked or your PFC is seeing less boost than is actually there for a different reason.

Tee a known-good boost gauge into the line you have currently connected to the actuator, this will show you

what your actuator's seeing. Do this with the BCK enabled and disabled. If you see '0' psi all the time with the kit enabled,

then your solenoid or control isn't working properly. If you see 'more than 0' with the kit enabled, the duty cycle is

the most likely culprit.

Make sure the solenoid's cycling (rattling). If it's not cycling (maybe it's closing once, then staying closed)

put a multimeter that can measure duty cycle on the control line and see whether the signal is saying 'stay closed'

or whether the solenoid's not following the signal. If it's not following the signal try switching borrowing a

known-good solenoid to replace yours. If it is following the signal (but the signal is wrong) try a known-good PFC.

Regards,

Saliya

[paulr33]

can u post a picture of what SETTING, BOOST looks like?

or just the numbers?

does MONITOR, BOOST show the true values or wrong values?

the only time i have boost control not work correctly is when the solenoid was backwards

[Robo's]

Thanks guys!!

Saliya

Ive put it on the lowest setting, 0.50 and 20 and it doesnt make any difference, just boosts up high under throttle. Funny thing is, i put an air compressor up it and the internal wastegate opened. I still think its a solenoid problem. I cannot hear any rattling noises with it turned on.

Paul

My boost on the PFC has always displayed wrong values. Like .67 equals to around 20psi. When i got the kit, i had to buy the AVCR boost sensor, and this is how it read from day one. If i put it on 1.0, it would go through the roof. So i've always played with the settings using .50, .60 and .70 and 44,50,60, cant quite remember all of them but something like that. .70 was my high boost, i was seeing around 21psi on my boost guage and on the dyno.

I will try swapping the boost lines tonight

[paulr33]

ok well there is the first problem

if the boost display isnt correct then you have very little hope of controlling it correctly, other than guesstimation. what is the part no# on the map sensor?

it sounds like you may have a different rated map sensor