Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well there is the first problem

if the boost display isnt correct then you have very little hope of controlling it correctly, other than guesstimation. what is the part no# on the map sensor?

it sounds like you may have a different rated map sensor

Paul

I will look tonight, but if i remember i couldnt locate the part number. I'll check. When i initially hooked it up, i had no problems, at least i could control boost so that part doesnt particularly worry me.

It does come with the kit, i got my kit 2nd hand with my PFC and it didnt come with it

Ahhh i thought so, thanks for clearing that up,also does the power fc boost controll solenoid plug straight into the gts25t standard boost controll solenoid wiring loom?

Cheers mate

Ahhh i thought so, thanks for clearing that up,also does the power fc boost controll solenoid plug straight into the gts25t standard boost controll solenoid wiring loom?

Cheers mate

no you have to cut and solder.

maybe back the front?

Tried reversing the NO line, wastegate didnt even open so plumbed it back.

I guess its the solenoid

Hey,

edit: strangeness! if you connected to the other port, you should have had exact reversal of previous

behaviour - with BCK enabled, should have been running on spring pressure; with it disabled, should

have been "unlimited" boost. Anyway...

At least you're making progress :)

Put a multimeter that can measure duty-cycle on the solenoid, and see whether it's being told to open or not.

At this point it doesn't _sound_ like the solenoid to me - when you have it enabled, it's closed; and when you have

it disabled, it's open. Sounds like the solenoid's working fine, but the controller's not telling it to open ... the

meter will tell you for sure though.

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya
Hey,

edit: strangeness! if you connected to the other port, you should have had exact reversal of previous

behaviour - with BCK enabled, should have been running on spring pressure; with it disabled, should

have been "unlimited" boost. Anyway...

At least you're making progress :glare:

Put a multimeter that can measure duty-cycle on the solenoid, and see whether it's being told to open or not.

At this point it doesn't _sound_ like the solenoid to me - when you have it enabled, it's closed; and when you have

it disabled, it's open. Sounds like the solenoid's working fine, but the controller's not telling it to open ... the

meter will tell you for sure though.

Regards,

Saliya

Thats what i am thinking , the controller isnt telling the solenoid to open, coz the solenoid is opening. Also, something i noticed on my controller, Settings, Boost, no.2 the last digits are 201 instead of 255, all the rest are 255. Is this normal??

Cheers

Thats what i am thinking , the controller isnt telling the solenoid to open, coz the solenoid is opening. Also, something i noticed on my controller, Settings, Boost, no.2 the last digits are 201 instead of 255, all the rest are 255. Is this normal??

Cheers

Pretty sure that's the "learning" part; _exactly_ what the number means I don't know; but when you change

the duty cycle it goes to 255 again. A number that's not 255 is perfectly normal as far as I know.

If I had to guess I'd say it's "attack" - and that it self-adjusts so that you approach target boost as fast as

possible without hitting the boost cut - but I don't know :P

Regards,

Saliya

i just dont see how the boost control kit would work if the boost reading youve set to be desired and duty control, but the boost control the PFC is seeing is way off

like if you set the target boost to be 1.2bar at 80 duty cycle thats fine

but if the map sensor signal is wacko and it only ever see's say 0.30bar cos its wrong, then it has little hope of working, or at least i dont see how?

i just dont see how the boost control kit would work if the boost reading youve set to be desired and duty control, but the boost control the PFC is seeing is way off

like if you set the target boost to be 1.2bar at 80 duty cycle thats fine

but if the map sensor signal is wacko and it only ever see's say 0.30bar cos its wrong, then it has little hope of working, or at least i dont see how?

Hey,

if the MAP sensor's reading 0.5kg/cm2 and you set target to 0.5 (and it's _really_ 'something else') don't see how that would

be a problem - after all, it doesn't really care _what_ the number is, only how close to (or far away) you are from it...

I'm pretty sure he's "aiming" at the sensor reading (like if the sensor reads 0.5, but that's really 1, and he really wants 1, then

he programs 0.5...)

The only time this would be a problem that I can see is in terms of resolution (like if 0.1 == 1, then an 0.2 overboost is actually

3 instead of 1.2); or in terms of minimums (say it reads 0.3 @ 1; you can't dial up 0.3 as a target if you want 1)

Regards,

Saliya

Hey,

if the MAP sensor's reading 0.5kg/cm2 and you set target to 0.5 (and it's _really_ 'something else') don't see how that would

be a problem - after all, it doesn't really care _what_ the number is, only how close to (or far away) you are from it...

I'm pretty sure he's "aiming" at the sensor reading (like if the sensor reads 0.5, but that's really 1, and he really wants 1, then

he programs 0.5...)

The only time this would be a problem that I can see is in terms of resolution (like if 0.1 == 1, then an 0.2 overboost is actually

3 instead of 1.2); or in terms of minimums (say it reads 0.3 @ 1; you can't dial up 0.3 as a target if you want 1)

Regards,

Saliya

Saliya

Exactly, previously i was able to set my boost aruond the wrong reading and didnt particularly worry me.

Well ive given up, the solenoid has power there, i cant hear it move, so i am thinking it maybe my PFC which cannot adjust anything to it. Going to get rid of it and try a cheap boost valve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...