Jump to content
SAU Community

Stage 1 Boost Controller Installed Into R32gtst, But Doesnt Limit Boost At All.


Recommended Posts

Heya,

We put a Turbosmart Stage 1 Boost controller into a R32 GTST, yet when driving it doesnt limit the boost, the boost just keeps pushing out until you take the foot of the throttle.

We have it running between the turbo and the actuator. Weve tried changing the direction in which it points, checked the pipes for kinks or holes, made sure its all correctly installed but it still has the same problem. We tried various settings on the boost controller itself and we even tried the boost controller in another car and it worked fine. Is there something we have missed?

I have come across a topic or two on these forums that mentions something about a boost solenoid? Could this be the problem? I searched and searched and couldnt find anything further on the forums or on google.

Whats the go with the boost solenoid in an R32? Should it be 'blocked' or 'bypassed' or something as I have read?

Many thanks!

  • 2 weeks later...

The R32 doesn't run a solenoid. It simply has a hose that runs from the compressor cover to the wastegate actuator where the actuator does ALL the boost control. No solenoids nothing.

post up a pic of how you have it connected.

I have used a couple of bleeds in the past with no dramas (except the 2 stage turbo smart, that was crap until i modified it)

Hey, I havent been able to get a picture yet.

But Im thinking, the control arm that runs from the actuator to the turbine side of the turbo (the wastegate inside), should you be able to move that with your hand? Left and right?

I cant, does that mean anything?

  • 1 month later...

hey guys, this is actually my car we are talking about. as howie said, we have swapped the direction of the controller just incase the arrow on it was pointing the wrong way, we have checked the hoses and all that being very thorough and still nothing will work. im not that worried about it at the moment cuz its running about 12 psi. also the other night when i was coming off an on ramp at full boost, the car sounded normal below 5000 rpm, however after that it started to make a noise kinda like a baby screaming. its got me thinking, could the turbo be starting to fail from the boost not being properly controlled? its a weird thing thats happening but any help would be greatly apprectiated.

also when you put a fmic on a 33 you have to run a hose from the piping to something else, otherwise it just keeps on boosting, so do you have to do the same for a rb20?

cheers

Standard RB20 turbos have a nipple on the compressor housing which the wastegate actuator is connected to.. my guess is that the actuator rod should not have any play in it as this would let the wastegate move uncontrolled.

You say that you're not that worried about it now as it is running 12psi.. does that mean it is controlling boost now?

My understanding of the turbosmart controllers is that they are a bleed valve, meaning they bleed air off requiring more pressure to open the wastegate than is normally needed. Tried winding it in at all? that should reduce boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...