Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine is an '88 model, only goes to 8k and the looks like the one on the right.

I think the different style numbers depended on the badge (SE, Sports, Sports Cruising etc).

The cluster in the original post goes up to 9k, but it is the same style as the one on the right, which only goes to 8k.

Also, my cluster doesn't seem to have a check engine light, is it supposed to be next to the cat temp sensor?

Edited by daisu
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i am stupid

checked mine today... 9k rpm revs up to...

ordered my new cluster tonite... 1 week n she will be here mwahahahaha its been painted white in japan (the cluster surround)

so ill just be pinching the actual dials and thats it...

last nite my gf had a stupid idea of pulling off the green bits of the warning lights - so they were clear...

got a headache driving last nite without the green tabs over the indicator and warning lights LOL... theyre goin back on

nah... it was a stupid idea to make them clear...too bright though needs the green slip over it... i dont mind green indicators

once my new cluster arrives next week from jap ill play around with colour options - so excited to have white dials coming!

My cluster is almost the same as the one on the right, except it goes to 9k and has the green behind it, the ceff is apparently a 90 model.

A friend of mine can get the back plate change completely, so you can can have red, white whatever for around 50-100 dollars.

I've been meaning to get mine done, but just to lazy.

my dash is like the one on the right (same lettering) but its manual so none of this park / drive bullshit. Doesnt have the cruise control light though. The rev dial goes to 9k and its a 1988 model. so yea maybe the lettering is based on the model of car it was ......dash light is green though

Edited by Resin

here are my efforts tonight.

DSC00208.jpg

painted the surround

DSC00206.jpg

stripped the green sleeve of with yellow globes

but i think i f*@ked up. My mate pulled the needle out of the temp gauge and the tacho, now the temp isn't reading like it used to. So i spose tacho has a good chance of being wrong.

Anyone know how to fix????

Edited by Traditimeour
  Traditimeour said:
here are my efforts tonight.

DSC00208.jpg

painted the surround

DSC00206.jpg

stripped the green sleeve of with yellow globes

but i think i f*@ked up. My mate pulled the needle out of the temp gauge and the tacho, now the temp isn't reading like it used to. So i spose tacho has a good chance of being wrong.

Anyone know how to fix????

Compare the tacho with an aftermarket one, and just get an aftermarket temp gauge, factory temp gauges are way too slow.

  Hella Flush said:
from memory thats your projector light button... i think let me check when i finish work

You mean high beam? That's on the other side. If you mean the fog light button then that's not on the cluster. It's some sort of warning light but I can't figure out what for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...