Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...

updated cluster arrived

with the newer model cluster - caps arent in the cluster... theyre condoms over the globes... so peeled them off... then decided to put my phillips ultravision artic globes in

turned it on

ba bow... bright fkn green

its the green on the dials... the mrs is doing OT at work today so shes trying the turps thing... i cant see how it will work as there doesnt seem to be a non green layer on the dials...

so now were all back to the same dilema - how to get the white!

the g/f here :(

got half of it done today whilst at work with a razor and turps :happy:

just an idea .. it's never going to come out 100% white as the plastic backing has a slight green tinge ...

another option if your after something INTERESTING is by sticking some clear coloured contact to the back .. ie pink / blue / purple / bla bla bla !

also the orange needles can be made into clear by simply turpsing off the coat of white/orange !

found out from a mate there is a gauge place here in adelaide near my gfs... his mate had his gauges reprinted

so might see if they can reprint the front part of mine onto clear sheet... or white... i thought it would be harder but supposedly these guys can do it

also gonna change needles to red also!

doesnt the newer model cluster conflict with the speed sensor? i know it's got that cable driven thing in the back.

i was having trouble with my cluster. PFC wasnt reading speed, and got told to change to another one from the same model, i was also told that the later model ones dont work nor do the RB25DE clusters.

works fine

only thing not working in my new cluster is fuel gauge... either due to incompatability or just broken gauge from japan (prolly reason why the guy was selling it lol)

waiting on my callback about reprinting these dials... im thinking itll be 500+

Phwoar $500+? that's a bit of money just for some white illumination...

I was thinking more along the lines of scanning the cluster dials (with a decent scanner), slight modification of the image on the computer, then go down to a sticker shop and have it printed as a vinyl sticker. Put the sticker on a piece of white acrylic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...