Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The RB25 head simply bolts on top of the RB30 block. No need to change anything inside the block.

You need to change some stuff in the timing cover area - new pullies, relocate pullies. And you need to change the computer to one that can run coilpacks.

Zoom ([email protected]) did an article a while ago, but I believe that issue is now out of print. Ask them, let me know the issue number, and I'll see if can dig it out. I can only fax it to you.

From my previous investigation, the VVT is driven by oil. If you want to retain the VVT, you will have to drill the BR30 block where the oil gallery for the VVT is and presto - VVT RB30.

Also from my investigation, if you go to aftermarket cam on the inlet side - no more VVT, so you may not wish to do this?

If you can find a VVT RB25DE, and steal the inlet cam, you will have (I believe) a 250 duration ??? lift inlet cam with VVT - IF you can find a cam.

thanks Steve ,excellent exactly what i needed to know thanks

above mentions that it is as simple as bolting the 25t head onto the rb30 bottom ,no piston/rod change required?

will the factory 25t turbo supply enough flow to the engine ,will the 370cc injectors be ok?

i know lots of questions for a newbie

thanks again

Injectors will be too small (only good for about 250rwkw with adj fuel pressure reg and fuel pump), turbo will be way too small.

Exactly what do you have for this conversion? You would probably be better off getting everything else sorted before you go swapping to a 3L.

hi Steve

I have a sick 25t ,broken rings,to much boost ,194000ks,bore still has hone marks

i have a rb30 block with low kays

im trying to work out weather

i should put rings, bearings into the 25t block or bolt up the rb30 block.

the 25t motor/turbo are standard

thanks

Well, I wouldnt hurt to do a 3L in that case, but it will be a little more expensive than the 2.5 due to needing to relocate the timing belt tensioner, new timing belt. But it wouldnt be a significant increase in cost.

The stock turbo will be a bit small, but it wont hurt.

I am a bit confused how you got 'too much boost' out of a stock turbo though.

After you have done that, start asking questions. You are still being a bit vague, ie what sort of mods you have and what you are after when the job has been complete.

If it were me, I would be doing the 3L, (but you are not me) dollar for dollar more bang for your buck - just remeber it will cost you alot more than the rebuild to get the most out of it - but that would be the case with the 2.5 bottom end too:)

Do you have aftermarket ECU? or fuel cut defender? stock gtst has fuel cut at about 12psi????

Even at 14psi with stock ecu, seems a bit strange that you are leaning out enough to cause detonation. Perhaps your injectors aren't flowing too well? or fuel pump? AFM playing up? Might be worth investigating....

Boost isnt too relevant to making power, airflow is. Different turbos flow differently at the same boost pressure.

Unlikely the stock one will last at 14psi - esp without a decent cooler. It would be worth investing in a decent high flow or bb turbo. Some more things to think about.

Hi steve, I keep reading about going LEAN out at 14 psi. Our experience has been, exactly the opposite, in that they go way RICH at anything more than 10 psi. The only cars we see that go LEAN have fuel pump, pressure regulator or filter problems.

Which becomes more obvious at over 10 psi, but is not really boost related, the problem is still there at 7 psi.

Hope that helps

Thanks Joel

I did a search but didnt find that post ,thanks man

out of interest i pulled my 25t dowm today and found no1,4,6 pistons had broken ring lands and on the r/hand(east?) side if the piston ,no bore damge at all.

is this the result of to much boost?

thanks

Hi Guys

just went to bolt up my 25t head and what happens?

the VVt oil feed hole in the head, lines up with the water Jacket in the block.

Steve said

From my previous investigation, the VVT is driven by oil. If you want to retain the VVT, you will have to drill the BR30 block where the oil gallery for the VVT is and presto - VVT RB30

is there another point to feed the VVT from???

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...