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Hey all

Unfortunatly i blew a big hole in the side of my block of my 33 gts-t the other day. I havent pulled my engine apart yet but it looks like i broke a rod and it punched through.

As unforutnate as it is, it gives me an opportunity to build an rb30/25 hybrid. Does anyone know anywhere in south brissie i can pick up a vl series 2 block or complete engine? Also does anyone know if the sensors on the block are different from rb30's to rb25's and if the rb25 wiring harness will still work?

Cheers

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Hey all

Unfortunatly i blew a big hole in the side of my block of my 33 gts-t the other day. I havent pulled my engine apart yet but it looks like i broke a rod and it punched through.

As unforutnate as it is, it gives me an opportunity to build an rb30/25 hybrid. Does anyone know anywhere in south brissie i can pick up a vl series 2 block or complete engine? Also does anyone know if the sensors on the block are different from rb30's to rb25's and if the rb25 wiring harness will still work?

Cheers

You can have my full motor for $100 complete from auto converter to pulleys & manifolds. its out of a 89 R31

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And believe me...you will have heaps of fun. Be prepared for the unexpected.

oh how true :)

have you read the R33 RB30 thread yet? if you havent go Here very informative :(

or to save YOU the hassle, hit dan (3lit3 32) up for one of his rebuilds :miner:

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i started reading it but 239 pages is alot to read. I gave up eventually haha. I'm hearing alot of people warning me not to buy the wrong engine but im still not sure of the guidelines. Apparently some of the rb30's even na engines are set up for the oil and cooler lines you need for the turbo and that there just plugged and some dont have anything at all so are no good for my purpose. I've also heard some people tell me you can just get the sump drilled and tapped for the oil return from the turbo and some people have told me you cant because of the baffles. Can anyone help me out with this and tell me what i need to look out for so i dont buy a dud.

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there are series 1 and series 2 rb30 blocks. Series 1 has the blanked off casting marks for the oil and water feed/returns. Series 2 has the same oil and water feed/returns except they are tapped and have bungs in them. So yes you are chasing a series 2 block with the bunged off holes. When inspecting a block..just look on the exhaust side for the oil return, oil feed and water return in roughly the same spots as your rb25. Piece of cake to find mate. If its got the bungs, it the one you want ;) So long as the motor is in half descent condition.

haha we bought 4 rb30e's outta vls from various places when we built the latest 25/30...they arent all in good condition.

Edited by r33_racer
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Sad to hear, but anyway I picked one up for about $60 on ebay. Series 2 block and the bores are perfect and original size.

Just remember to download the guide in the above mentioned post and the rest should be fine.

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Cheers guys. I found one at capalaba wreckers with the bungs, there just pulling it apart for me now and inspecting it. $100 aint too bad. Im gonna send it away straight away to get crack tested, honed & crank balanced. I'd love to go out and buy everything i want now but unfortunatly i wasnt finacially ready for this incident lol

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awesome mate theyre pretty cheap hey hehe

one thing, it may be better to putt of getting ur crank balanced until u get the rest of ur gear (pistons, rods, flywheel & clutch) caus they all get balanced together :P

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all another conversion question to anyone who may know. I know theres a massive topic on hybrids but its too big for me to find what im looking for. ive been told that when you put the rb25 head on the rb30 block there is one left over water jacket you have to weld up or something. Is this true or does anyone have any more info on the subject.

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Coolant feed to the turbo comes from the inlet manifold and around the back for one and from the rear of the block about 1/4 way down for the other. No turbo feed comes from the passenger front of the cylinder head.

Have a look on the cylinder head on the exhaust side towards the very front edge. There is a hole with two threaded holes either side of it at an angle. That hole needs to be sealed.

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ok sweet as thanks elite. Do i have to tap a new thread for my vct and is there a water gallerty under the head i have to block off?

Edited by r_speedfreak_r
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no galleries to block off. Just the vct...i built up that front water gallery where the headgasket has little area to seal on.

From the front of the head you can see the channel the vct oil feed comes from. You just drill into that and tap it for a fitting to provide oil to the head from an external feed.

Edited by r33_racer
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Coolant feed to the turbo comes from the inlet manifold and around the back for one and from the rear of the block about 1/4 way down for the other. No turbo feed comes from the passenger front of the cylinder head.

Have a look on the cylinder head on the exhaust side towards the very front edge. There is a hole with two threaded holes either side of it at an angle. That hole needs to be sealed.

I just noticed this post...sorry but Dan are you referring to the front oil return from the head. If so, you dont weld that up at all. You run that down to the sump, alot of other people just T it into the turbos oil return. The rb25 block has two fittings for oil return on the passenger side, one for the heads front oil return and the other for the turbos oil return.

Sounds like your a little confused. Or are we not thinking of the same thing here, because its the only thing im aware of on the passenger side of the block.

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