Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not confused...that is the line I am referring to.

I think in his original question he may have been referring to the oil return gallery on the drivers side front of the head where the NVCS oil feed is usually situated.

The oil return on the passenger side can be run back to the turbo return...yes, but not necessary if you have extra oil returns on the back and restrictors in the feed galleries.

for a road car that is probably correct, for anything track related you need em all, even with back return and restrictors.

Either way an extra oil return required or not can only be beneficial. But obviously as always these things depend on application and setup.

i will have oil feed restrictors. I heard they are essential to stop all the oil running to the head and leaving the sump dry. Thanks for your help guys. its still all a little blurry to me atm but my engine isnt yet ready to go back together im simply asking due to comments ive heard from others. I'm sure once im putting the two engines together i'll be able to relate what your saying to whats infront of me.

So let me get this straight,

1. there is no oil supply for the 25 head VVT on the 30 block but you can supply it externally by drilling and tapping a fitting into the oil gallery for the VVT on the head?

2. There is a water jacket that needs sealing on the 25 head?

1. correct.

2. no water jacket that needs sealing up completely, if thats what is meant. If there is, we havent done it on either of the two 25/30 weve built for our race car. There is the waterjacket which doesnt have much sealing area for the headgasket, so we built that up with weld to match the headgasket. However alot of people get away with doing nothing for that one.

3. there is no front head oil return fitting in the rb30 block, just the turbo oil return. You can either block that off like Dan suggests, 'T' it into the turbos oil return, not the greatest way or weld a fitting to the sump somewhere for it.

1. Allright!

2. "There is the waterjacket which doesnt have much sealing area for the headgasket"

So this is an area of concern that requires attention, as I would want a good sealing surface on the head gasket esp. I take it the edge doesnt match the edge of the gasket? ie is behind that line with extra gasket.

3."there is no front head oil return fitting in the rb30 block'

Is it possible to drill and tap in the same place as the 25 block?

2. from memory the gasket protrudes into the water jacket so you build up that section of the jacket so it seals on it better.

3. it could be, but the webbing and block design is different to that of the rb25, we looked at doing that but it was going to be going straight through a web i think. From what dan is saying if your running the correct restrictors and rear head return, that you can block off that front one and not worry about it.

Edited by r33_racer

Oil pressure sender feed. 'T' piece into that feed and run your line upto the fitting welded off the gallery, or if your running the std rb25 heat exchanger then you can run ops off that and your vct feed off the block.

These should help. In the first motor we used the heat exchanger and ran std ops, mech gauge off that and vct off the block. New motor has std ops, vct and mech gauge all off a 'T' piece off block.

post-12828-1171883426.jpg

post-12828-1171883474.jpg

hey i just had a thought. If i'm building an engine from scratch would it be worth buying an rb26 head and bolting that on instead of the rb25 head? That way i would have as good of an engine as any gtr just rwd. Is it worth the money and does anyone what you need and how much it costs to make it fit?

going off that thread it sound like the rb26 stock head is better because you dont have to do anything to it. but what do you need to make it fit on the rb30 block and where can u buy everything you need

going off that thread it sound like the rb26 stock head is better because you dont have to do anything to it. but what do you need to make it fit on the rb30 block and where can u buy everything you need

theres a fair few bits of fiddley sh!t that needs doing. everythings posted in the R33 RB30 thread in the forced induction area, so instead of posting repetative questions in here, maybe go have a squizz in the other thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry the pictures suck. So hard to get camera and light in there
    • One of the first jobs with the E39 is making sure the tailgate stays up. In BMW fashion they made a little cavity under the roof to hide the dampers rather than putting them down the side like everybody else.  As you can see I have these little cavities that house the dampers. When I cleared one out and vacuumed as much crap as I could out of it I noticed a fair bit of rust. The cavity is bone dry, even after all that rain we had only a few days ago so I'm assuming that whatever allowed the moisture in is fixed but I'd like to treat the rust in there.  I was thinking of just blasting it full of rust converter but I didn't know if this would be beneficial considering I can't actually get in there to prep anything.  Maybe there's a better product?  Thanks guys
    • Had a few skylines over the years anyway bought this a few years ago for skidz i think it’s been around these traps for a while anyway I plan to thrash and trash and I assume it’s going to send me broke good times
    • The stock boost solenoid is just a valve. Power it and it is open. Unpowered, it is closed. When it is closed, there is no boost bleed out through the solenoid back to the inlet. The wastegate sees all the boost pressure, thus you get the wastegate's spring pressure as your boost pressure. 5 psi. When it is open, it lets some boost escape. This causes the static (boost) pressure in the line to the wastegate to be lower than the pressure in the intercooler pipe. There is probably a small restrictor in the solenoid or one of its lines to limit the flow rate of the escaping air, which limits how far the static pressure can fall, which limits the extra boost. The boost has to climb above the original/wastegate setpoint until the wastegate sees 5 psi. You get 7 psi in the intercooler pipework. A manual boost controller is exactly the same setup, just without the ability to change it on-off. It's always set to whatever you set it to. There is a small leak from the boost controller. The more you screw the adjuster in, the more it leaks, the lower the pressure seen at the wastegate and the higher the boost will be. So, yes, your diagrams are correct.
    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
×
×
  • Create New...