Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not confused...that is the line I am referring to.

I think in his original question he may have been referring to the oil return gallery on the drivers side front of the head where the NVCS oil feed is usually situated.

The oil return on the passenger side can be run back to the turbo return...yes, but not necessary if you have extra oil returns on the back and restrictors in the feed galleries.

for a road car that is probably correct, for anything track related you need em all, even with back return and restrictors.

Either way an extra oil return required or not can only be beneficial. But obviously as always these things depend on application and setup.

i will have oil feed restrictors. I heard they are essential to stop all the oil running to the head and leaving the sump dry. Thanks for your help guys. its still all a little blurry to me atm but my engine isnt yet ready to go back together im simply asking due to comments ive heard from others. I'm sure once im putting the two engines together i'll be able to relate what your saying to whats infront of me.

So let me get this straight,

1. there is no oil supply for the 25 head VVT on the 30 block but you can supply it externally by drilling and tapping a fitting into the oil gallery for the VVT on the head?

2. There is a water jacket that needs sealing on the 25 head?

1. correct.

2. no water jacket that needs sealing up completely, if thats what is meant. If there is, we havent done it on either of the two 25/30 weve built for our race car. There is the waterjacket which doesnt have much sealing area for the headgasket, so we built that up with weld to match the headgasket. However alot of people get away with doing nothing for that one.

3. there is no front head oil return fitting in the rb30 block, just the turbo oil return. You can either block that off like Dan suggests, 'T' it into the turbos oil return, not the greatest way or weld a fitting to the sump somewhere for it.

1. Allright!

2. "There is the waterjacket which doesnt have much sealing area for the headgasket"

So this is an area of concern that requires attention, as I would want a good sealing surface on the head gasket esp. I take it the edge doesnt match the edge of the gasket? ie is behind that line with extra gasket.

3."there is no front head oil return fitting in the rb30 block'

Is it possible to drill and tap in the same place as the 25 block?

2. from memory the gasket protrudes into the water jacket so you build up that section of the jacket so it seals on it better.

3. it could be, but the webbing and block design is different to that of the rb25, we looked at doing that but it was going to be going straight through a web i think. From what dan is saying if your running the correct restrictors and rear head return, that you can block off that front one and not worry about it.

Edited by r33_racer

Oil pressure sender feed. 'T' piece into that feed and run your line upto the fitting welded off the gallery, or if your running the std rb25 heat exchanger then you can run ops off that and your vct feed off the block.

These should help. In the first motor we used the heat exchanger and ran std ops, mech gauge off that and vct off the block. New motor has std ops, vct and mech gauge all off a 'T' piece off block.

post-12828-1171883426.jpg

post-12828-1171883474.jpg

hey i just had a thought. If i'm building an engine from scratch would it be worth buying an rb26 head and bolting that on instead of the rb25 head? That way i would have as good of an engine as any gtr just rwd. Is it worth the money and does anyone what you need and how much it costs to make it fit?

going off that thread it sound like the rb26 stock head is better because you dont have to do anything to it. but what do you need to make it fit on the rb30 block and where can u buy everything you need

going off that thread it sound like the rb26 stock head is better because you dont have to do anything to it. but what do you need to make it fit on the rb30 block and where can u buy everything you need

theres a fair few bits of fiddley sh!t that needs doing. everythings posted in the R33 RB30 thread in the forced induction area, so instead of posting repetative questions in here, maybe go have a squizz in the other thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...