Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All.. A Concept that I've been familiar with, but never gone into ... is Adjusting the Stock BOV to get a 'fluttering' sound..

Apparently you block something.. but as I've not given any thought into it.. I've not tried anything..

So Does anyone know what the go is with adjusting your stock BOV to get a Fluttering sound?

Cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15350-adjusting-the-factory-bov-in-an-r33/
Share on other sites

U sure ur not refereing to blocking off the BOV, so it gets bypassed and all u get the 'fluttering' of the cooler? I tried that on mine, waste of time really, u loose all the responsiveness, and the tiny stocky cooler doesnt really sound 'fully sik'!

you block the return pipe form the bov, and due to the fact the air can't escape it goes back through the turbine, which is bad for your turbo so i suggest you do not do it! the fluttering sound is called compressor surge! sometimes you can get the flutter sound because your bov isn't tight enough but that is only for aftermarket bov's, this is why vl turbos, the early ca18 silvias make this flutter noise because they never came out with a standard bov :) this would be the 50 millionth time this has been explained

adrian :)

p.s:- never thought a 17 yr old would be explaining this to older people :)

why not just keep the standard bov. You get a nice sound with a pod. and if u want get a short alloy pipe from your turbo to replace the rubber hose. sounds even louder when spooling up. or just stick the pod off the turbo like they do on rotors.

either way i'd always go plumb back bov, unless i was running some type of aftermarket management, or safc so i could prevent stalling.

but u can run with no bov. people say its bad for your turbo, that compressor surge. I'd say not entirely true. Depends. If i had an auto i would run no bov. Like a lot of the hot vl turbos. As they just flat to the floor and no taking foot off throttle, thus no pressure being released anyways. And when you take your foot off in an auto, you aren't normally looking to speed up. Cause you dont have to change gears, so basically to slow down, so no lost throttle response. Thats my theory anyways.

but yeah, cars are confusing. so many ways to do stuff, but i say dont fix it unless its broken.

this would be the 50 millionth time this has been explained

first time i've seen it :(

yer, stock BOV makes enough noise.. if you run 12psi or so it sounds cool anyway. That flutter noise is kinda cool when you hear it but then again its also talking to the cops going "canary me, canary me" at the same time.

Lot'a the aftermarket BOV's can do it properly .. so i'd be going for one of them if u really have to have that noise.

Originally posted by dabigbolf

but u can run with no bov. people say its bad for your turbo, that compressor surge.  I'd say not entirely true.  Depends.  

agreed.

even with a manual too... cause if you can change quick enough you can catch the boost spike... and then throw the extra few psi down the plenum's throat.

As for it being bad for your turbo... not really THAT bad.

in the end you'll need to have it re-built anyhow. Running no BOV only makes it occur quicker.

But still your turb's will last a few years. It's not as if it'll give up the gohst in 2 weeks.

I don't run a BOV at all. Much prefer to catch the spike and light tyres till 7500 RPM :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...