Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry guys,let me clarify.On a post on page 2 I said that I had a dyno run with no lid,that was with bonnet up.Obviously that would make a big difference in temps.But the run with 2kws less was with bonnet closed.So the setup really isn`t to bad.Three inch pipe from old cooler hole to underside of snorkel.Clamp both ends using pvc pipe connectors.Then cut small hole in front of lid facing headlight about 1'' by 3".Yes I know it isn`t perfect due to a little under bonnet temps but it does get me close to no lid at all.

Why dont u create the vent in the bonnet so it is designed that the air enters the bottom of the car and exits the vent. thats how its all supposed to work. you dont stick a vent over the pod. therefore rain wont be in issue unless u are driving 80km/h in reverse for it to be going into ur pod.

My brother has a cf bonnet on his Supra (TRD style) that has vents over where his pod sits and it comes with plastic inserts that you can stick in to block the vents off if it rains. You just need to remember to put them in! (he forgot once, bad move!)

  • 1 month later...

Exactly what I did but put a flexable tube from from old cooler hole in guard to underside of snorkel between the curve of the cooler pipe and the air box.To make up for lost intake width.

Exactly what I did but put a flexable tube from from old cooler hole in guard to underside of snorkel between the curve of the cooler pipe and the air box.To make up for lost intake width.

i just used the radiator air deflector with scoop to compensate

I was under the impression in vic that the epa laws state "must be a standard and un-modified air box" if you have a fmic that is...

but like dezz said if your car has a standard fmic then a pod is ok to have...

but as for the topic i do agree with the factors involved with a air box without a lid, it'll be the same concept as having a pod.. hot air from engine bay...

i'm in the process of having different intercooler pipes made to go around the air box guide.. (i wish i baught a intercooler that used the standard holes lol)

but you live and learn :)

  • 2 months later...

Hey EGA41T - I see your pipe that comes over the radiatorhas a nice bend back downwards after going over the radiator fan. Mine heads upwards and doesn't come back down - hitting the bonnet a little.

Because yours bends back down it means you didnt have to take quite as much out of your snorkel. Did your pipe come like that or did you get the pipe bent afterwards?

Cheers

- mine is a justjap kit..

Hey EGA41T - I see your pipe that comes over the radiator has a nice bend back downwards after going over the radiator fan. Mine heads upwards and doesn't come back down - hitting the bonnet a little.

Because yours bends back down it means you didnt have to take quite as much out of your snorkel. Did your pipe come like that or did you get the pipe bent afterwards?

Cheers

- mine is a justjap kit..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...