Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi RS500, "looks like you've been reading Issue No. 63 of Zoom" No not really, where do you think Martin got the story idea from? I have been posting this sort of stuff for months. I suspect that Ben and Martin have pinched a few ideas from our discussions. The 2530 versus 2540 is another one of our often discussed topics that has appeared in HPI.

That's OK, everyone benefits from the shared knowledge.

Hi sidewaymambo, "so is there possibility that this car was tune for drag?" If it had a close ratio gearbox (so the revs did not drop as far on upchanges) or an auto box, then maybe it would be good for drags. Without those, it is really just a "dyno queen".

Food for thought huh?

Hi sidewaymambo, my experience has been that the lean A/F ratio is pretty common prior to boost build. It's good for fuel economy and, since there is basically no boost, it is around what you would expect for a normally aspirated engine.

As usual, it is a bit of a compromise, it helps the throttle response a little, if they are too rich they get doughy. But a bit more fuel, particularly unburnt, can spool up the turbo a bit quicker. You can also help this with a higher level of acceleration enrichment.

Hope that made sense

I have pulled the TD06s off Dougs old GTR & Mick at Tilbrooks has them + other gear.Not sure what plans he has for them, but give him a call as they have lots of good gear floating around at the moment. BTW - you reckon 1x T67 might be too big!!!!

You should see the 2 new T67s hanging off Keirs GTR now- cool.

I am going the other way. The 2835Rs are now sold & we have a huge single turb coming for the 3 litre. Lag city - but doesn't matter when our engines never see less than 7000rpm!

Mark is keeping his ear to the ground for me. I guess those turbs are not for me or he would have offered. Mick has sujested a Garett setup with flashy everything which I initially borked at price wise. Mark had organised the RED JMS gear for me which fell through. I also missed out on a Trust 67 kit that Mark had as I was overseas and he basically forgot about me wanting something. I guess if nothing comes up I may have to bite the bullet and open the wallet. It certainly pays to shop around though. Good secondhand gear can certainly save money.

What rumour might that be? Oh, you mean the comment by Martin

at the end of the article in the 3rd GTR issue. Wont fit, but anyway

I love changing gears.My Race R33 has a sequential Holinger 6 speed & if I short change I cross the line in 6th gear.Great fun.

My Street R33 has a close ratio 5 speed, but I am fitting the Trust

6 speed dog box as no-one wants to buy it! I would prefer not to

run it as this car will be a daily driver & the Trust dogs are pretty hard core, but the normal box will not last me 2 weeks & as it's H pattern it's better than a Holinger for the street.The R34 has the standard getrag 6 speed with a twin plate clutch.The EVO7 runs a

5 speed, & the SS ute is a 6 speed too.

autos certainly have there uses, but not in my garage!

Guest Shunted

I'm not sure that many people think about driveability or practicality regarding turbo choice or car setup. Sydneykid and others must be getting a sore throat (or sore fingers) from preaching about flat torque curves and realistic turbo selection - apart from visual impact and the ability to smoke the treads coming on boost how often is that td-06/t88/insert_favorite_massive_turbo_here going to be spinning at anywhere near ~1 bar? Not to mention that to use these large turbos should use cams, upgraded fuel/engine management/ suspension/ tires/ closer ratio gearset/diff etc. which soon turn the car into a moneypit and a not-so-street car.

I don't think that reading a particular issue of HPI has anything to do with common tuning sense. Building the rest of the car around an engine with a particular powerband is an old science...

Then again some people might want that :)

Munro,

What sort of single are you looking at putting in? My mechanic's single turbo'd RB26/30DET made near 500rwkw (on 103 octane unleaded), and builds boost almost as quickly as my car does (t66 on rb25/30det)...

Cheers,

matt

Originally posted by Munro

I have pulled the TD06s off Dougs old GTR & Mick at Tilbrooks has them + other gear.Not sure what plans he has for them, but give him a call as they have lots of good gear floating around at the moment.  BTW - you reckon 1x T67 might be too big!!!!

You should see the 2 new T67s hanging off Keirs GTR now- cool.

I am going the other way. The 2835Rs are now sold & we have a huge single turb coming for the 3 litre. Lag city - but doesn't matter when our engines never see less than 7000rpm!

Hey Mat, I sense when the boost comes on is not really a problem for Munro's Drag Car... I'm expecting 1000bhp minimum... It has to be faster than Mario's Andre Driven GTR, which did 8's on slicks.....

But thats my guess... Now that the Sub-Zero guru has gone to Tilbrooks, My guess is Murno going for outright fastest GTR in the land....I'm only speculating...

And by the way Munro, how many bloody GTRs do you own... I knew of 2, the drag R33 and the blue one....

So, are you really going for outright....

Ah, I couldn't help myself. I traded my S2000 on Doug Dinans Silver R33(the one in the 1st Speed issue) so thats my "street 33"

Going for a single 3540 so will boost up quicker & still have good top end power.With the dog box in it, it will be interesting to see what time it pulls in full weight street trim.I would expect mid 10s,

so could possibly have 2 GTRs in the aust top ten!this car has full Motec/CDI/datalogging as well so can use my laptop to tune/log both R33s.We will be tuning it to last & not for outright power, & I intend to use it regularly on the street.The R34 is basically stock & I want to leave it that way - it's a great hills car as it is.

As far as the race car goes we are looking at a T51R SPL BB.I would prefer to stay with big twins, but for 1/4 work only we feel that this is the best option at the moment.We are allready nearing the limits of the Nittos, but Keir & I would like to get into the Jap top ten list on radials which means a 9.1 or better.

It is probably inevitable that when we both are ready, the big brakes will come off & the slicks will go on.When we get to that stage we will be chasing Reece & Mario, but I cant see that happening in the near future. At the moment we are focused on our street tyre battle & outright honours is not really a concern.

Reece is allready in the Jap Pro top ten, & when Marios car is ready he will be much faster than our cars.Maybe a shootout for line honours at Drag combat at the end of the year!

PS- sorry about hijacking this thread grepin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...