Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi RS500, "looks like you've been reading Issue No. 63 of Zoom" No not really, where do you think Martin got the story idea from? I have been posting this sort of stuff for months. I suspect that Ben and Martin have pinched a few ideas from our discussions. The 2530 versus 2540 is another one of our often discussed topics that has appeared in HPI.

That's OK, everyone benefits from the shared knowledge.

Hi sidewaymambo, "so is there possibility that this car was tune for drag?" If it had a close ratio gearbox (so the revs did not drop as far on upchanges) or an auto box, then maybe it would be good for drags. Without those, it is really just a "dyno queen".

Food for thought huh?

Hi sidewaymambo, my experience has been that the lean A/F ratio is pretty common prior to boost build. It's good for fuel economy and, since there is basically no boost, it is around what you would expect for a normally aspirated engine.

As usual, it is a bit of a compromise, it helps the throttle response a little, if they are too rich they get doughy. But a bit more fuel, particularly unburnt, can spool up the turbo a bit quicker. You can also help this with a higher level of acceleration enrichment.

Hope that made sense

I have pulled the TD06s off Dougs old GTR & Mick at Tilbrooks has them + other gear.Not sure what plans he has for them, but give him a call as they have lots of good gear floating around at the moment. BTW - you reckon 1x T67 might be too big!!!!

You should see the 2 new T67s hanging off Keirs GTR now- cool.

I am going the other way. The 2835Rs are now sold & we have a huge single turb coming for the 3 litre. Lag city - but doesn't matter when our engines never see less than 7000rpm!

Mark is keeping his ear to the ground for me. I guess those turbs are not for me or he would have offered. Mick has sujested a Garett setup with flashy everything which I initially borked at price wise. Mark had organised the RED JMS gear for me which fell through. I also missed out on a Trust 67 kit that Mark had as I was overseas and he basically forgot about me wanting something. I guess if nothing comes up I may have to bite the bullet and open the wallet. It certainly pays to shop around though. Good secondhand gear can certainly save money.

What rumour might that be? Oh, you mean the comment by Martin

at the end of the article in the 3rd GTR issue. Wont fit, but anyway

I love changing gears.My Race R33 has a sequential Holinger 6 speed & if I short change I cross the line in 6th gear.Great fun.

My Street R33 has a close ratio 5 speed, but I am fitting the Trust

6 speed dog box as no-one wants to buy it! I would prefer not to

run it as this car will be a daily driver & the Trust dogs are pretty hard core, but the normal box will not last me 2 weeks & as it's H pattern it's better than a Holinger for the street.The R34 has the standard getrag 6 speed with a twin plate clutch.The EVO7 runs a

5 speed, & the SS ute is a 6 speed too.

autos certainly have there uses, but not in my garage!

Guest Shunted

I'm not sure that many people think about driveability or practicality regarding turbo choice or car setup. Sydneykid and others must be getting a sore throat (or sore fingers) from preaching about flat torque curves and realistic turbo selection - apart from visual impact and the ability to smoke the treads coming on boost how often is that td-06/t88/insert_favorite_massive_turbo_here going to be spinning at anywhere near ~1 bar? Not to mention that to use these large turbos should use cams, upgraded fuel/engine management/ suspension/ tires/ closer ratio gearset/diff etc. which soon turn the car into a moneypit and a not-so-street car.

I don't think that reading a particular issue of HPI has anything to do with common tuning sense. Building the rest of the car around an engine with a particular powerband is an old science...

Then again some people might want that :)

Munro,

What sort of single are you looking at putting in? My mechanic's single turbo'd RB26/30DET made near 500rwkw (on 103 octane unleaded), and builds boost almost as quickly as my car does (t66 on rb25/30det)...

Cheers,

matt

Originally posted by Munro

I have pulled the TD06s off Dougs old GTR & Mick at Tilbrooks has them + other gear.Not sure what plans he has for them, but give him a call as they have lots of good gear floating around at the moment.  BTW - you reckon 1x T67 might be too big!!!!

You should see the 2 new T67s hanging off Keirs GTR now- cool.

I am going the other way. The 2835Rs are now sold & we have a huge single turb coming for the 3 litre. Lag city - but doesn't matter when our engines never see less than 7000rpm!

Hey Mat, I sense when the boost comes on is not really a problem for Munro's Drag Car... I'm expecting 1000bhp minimum... It has to be faster than Mario's Andre Driven GTR, which did 8's on slicks.....

But thats my guess... Now that the Sub-Zero guru has gone to Tilbrooks, My guess is Murno going for outright fastest GTR in the land....I'm only speculating...

And by the way Munro, how many bloody GTRs do you own... I knew of 2, the drag R33 and the blue one....

So, are you really going for outright....

Ah, I couldn't help myself. I traded my S2000 on Doug Dinans Silver R33(the one in the 1st Speed issue) so thats my "street 33"

Going for a single 3540 so will boost up quicker & still have good top end power.With the dog box in it, it will be interesting to see what time it pulls in full weight street trim.I would expect mid 10s,

so could possibly have 2 GTRs in the aust top ten!this car has full Motec/CDI/datalogging as well so can use my laptop to tune/log both R33s.We will be tuning it to last & not for outright power, & I intend to use it regularly on the street.The R34 is basically stock & I want to leave it that way - it's a great hills car as it is.

As far as the race car goes we are looking at a T51R SPL BB.I would prefer to stay with big twins, but for 1/4 work only we feel that this is the best option at the moment.We are allready nearing the limits of the Nittos, but Keir & I would like to get into the Jap top ten list on radials which means a 9.1 or better.

It is probably inevitable that when we both are ready, the big brakes will come off & the slicks will go on.When we get to that stage we will be chasing Reece & Mario, but I cant see that happening in the near future. At the moment we are focused on our street tyre battle & outright honours is not really a concern.

Reece is allready in the Jap Pro top ten, & when Marios car is ready he will be much faster than our cars.Maybe a shootout for line honours at Drag combat at the end of the year!

PS- sorry about hijacking this thread grepin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...