Jump to content
SAU Community

upgrade or downgrade  

422 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

one of my cars is a 32 GTR. I will NEVER sell it. simple. I can't imagine ever feeling that way about an R34... other cars will come and go, but my current 32 GTR will be with me for a long time.
Both stock the r32 GT-R would be a downgrade.

If both were modified the GT-R would be a huge upgrade

if you mean factory new cars your sadly mistaken,gtr is way better..i think even 2 stock ones today youd be hard up justifying that bullshi.t

lol at quoted 14sec quarter in GTT..

anyway. im highly considering keeping my GTR as its too hard to get the money they are worth. ppl go off and drive some shitters ask to drive mine i say no cause they dont have cash. and think that all GTR are shit.. believe me ive seen shit GTRs and ive seen SHITTIER GTT. in a caryard.. WTF?

cause some tyre kicker mucked me around for 3 months ill prob keep my GTR and play the waiting game. looks like ill be waiting along time cause my engine is still strong ;) poor GTT aint. ;)

You maybe lucky, but 99% of the time rb26s from R32s don't take long to pop if you put them under some pressure! Seen that over and over and over, the rb25's aren't driven as hard (as they aren't the race spec engine) and are far newer thus maintiance costs are going to be much better.

The only reason i went the GTT was simply age and the look. Performance everybody has established the GTR (in decent condition, alot are SHOCKERS) would outperform the GTT all day long!

Guys I think this will always come down to the individuals ideas about practicality . As much as I like them I will never own a GTR because they have a habit of being a financial nightmare . The cost and effort that goes into keeping these cars in tip top condition is something else . Then there's the can't leave it anywhere and car jacking issues . There are limits to how hard you can drive a car on the street and using anything close to all a GTR can dish out will put you in gaol and deservedly so .

With some reluctance I voted downgrade because I believe the R34GTT is a car that can be practical fun without costing investment property dollars . You can sink cubic dollars into any GTR but try getting it back when you tire of it or sell it before it ruins you .

The thing that I keep coming back to is that GTR's are not the class leaders when it comes to production class motorsport . For whatever reasons Evo Lancers seem to get it together better on the track so what the differences are - possibly weight and suspension design - it works .

There will always be a place in my heart for the R32GTR given what GMS achieved with them but they can be beaten by design or engineering over design . Tiz the way of things .

My opinions only cheers A .

the 80s rules supreme

i changed my 98 gtt sedan for the 95 gtr and the difference in age or build type quality wasnt that much different , both were starting to show their mid life kms and wear but still pretty good

there are some old shit 32s around now though

Edited by arkon
I say downgrade to GTR... those things sound like a jet. Infact, I recommend markimak's GTR because it's probably the cleanest example i've EVER seen!

oh shucks.. if we wernt close friends already and jade wasnt with me i would kiss u.. ahaha :laugh:

looks like GTR are the upgrades still :(

andz69:

my vote should count. i am the tester. ill give the GTT a thrash and my GTR a leasurly drive and the GTR still comes out on top..

but chris loves driving the GTT dont ya buddy.

Edited by markimak

i didnt read all of the post but i was looking for 12 months for a R32 GTR but settled eventually for a S2 R33 with only 50000km. very very clean example, very pleased with it. BUT, ive been bitten by the GTR bug and can see myself selling it and giving in to temptation and buying a GTR.

nothing compares..

nuff said

oh shucks.. if we wernt close friends already and jade wasnt with me i would kiss u.. ahaha :D

looks like GTR are the upgrades still :(

andz69:

my vote should count. i am the tester. ill give the GTT a thrash and my GTR a leasurly drive and the GTR still comes out on top..

but chris loves driving the GTT dont ya buddy.

Aww, no kiss? haha :laugh:

The GTT is a great drive, but you have to ask yourself, do you want a daily car or the high powered racing monster? If I could afford the GTR, that's what I'd be buying, but the GTT is a good overall package none the less.

GTT = daily car

GTR = fast car

nuff said.

daily car for nerds = hyundai

daily car for people who love cars = R32 GTR

* I drove one as a work car for 3 years, Group A turbos, cams etc.. very tractible and easy going.

* Better than a GTT as you don't have to worry about spirited driving during winter. Unlike the GTT that makes an R32 GTR a car for 'All Seasons'

* I got 450+kms to a tank of fuel, A few friends running the d-jetro power FC's have got as many as 600kms.

* for those questioning the longevity my old R32 GTR had covered almost 250,000kms before it need a freshen up. Seen plenty of rooted RB25's at much lower kms and far lower power levels. The Rb25 is a glass jaw engine when compared to the RB26.

So really a Daily car for people who love cars with not much cash = R34 GTT.

The newer car thing is bollocks, it's all about condition, there isn't anything in new attractive technology in the povo'pack GTT. By that theory alone a 2007 hyundai excel is better than an R34 GTR. The comparison is less extreme but, basically the same.

I aggree, people instantly think a brand new car is better than a excellent condition 2nd hand car. I have a tip for you, take it to a workshop who knows what to look for (not just shiney paint) and get them to look over it before you buy. Its the safest way and any decent seller wont mind. Get the best of both worlds.

Newer car = newer tech

newer suspension bits, newer interior parts, newer paint, newer engine blah blah blah blah

Thats whats attractive about new cars.

Even if the GTR is factory condition (which 99.9% aren't) it still won't have the build quality of an r33 or r34, and if you've owned more than one you can see the small and big things as the models go up. Nissan engineers were never going to go backwards :(

If you have alot of $ and want something real quick of course the GTR is going to deliver over the GTT, but its not always just about that for some... its not hard to get say 350rwhp outta a GTT which makes it a comfortable, fast and enjoyable car, if you want more than that then the GTR would be much more suitable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...