Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maybe it would be good to throw your car on the new UAS dyno very soon, then have this installed and get it dyno'd again on the SAU Dyno day coming up soon?

I hope everyone realises that some dynos see a lower rotating inertia for the drivetrain & erroneously accredit the quicker ramp up of the system to there being more horsepower. ie put in your tailshaft & the dyno will show a gain in horsepower that is not really there.

Which is not to say that lower weight/inertia is not a very good thing in itself. :huh:

Edited by djr81
Would it not show that it revs quicker?

Well out in the world, yes. But on the dyno it is different. As I understand it (Read, probably don't) the inertia of the dyno mechanism needs to be taken into account when the power figures are worked out. Now the dyno somehow needs to differentiate this inertia from the cars drivetrain inertia. So what I am trying to say is that if you lessen the cars drivetrain inertia it will accelerate faster (Without any extra horsepower) but if the inertia figure in the dyno for the car doesn't get changed it "sees" it as more horsepower.

Now my head hurts. :huh:

Too technical for your own good. A dyno is going to be more accurate than my butt dyno but I am not one for figures and dynos in general so may not bother at all with the dyno. No point at all to me... more keen to see what the car feels like now on Eastern Creek.

Ok well this is killing me.. I've been sitting back watching this thread - keen to see an outcome.. Now I'm all teased and tetchy..

Justin? How the hell is it going?? Is it in yet??? :)

....I really want to see if one of these is worth it.

Ok well this is killing me.. I've been sitting back watching this thread - keen to see an outcome.. Now I'm all teased and tetchy..

Justin? How the hell is it going?? Is it in yet??? :thumbsup:

....I really want to see if one of these is worth it.

I think the owner would be hanging out more

But yeah i would like to hear a report when she is painted

justinfox: did you end up getting the pulley kit? with these types of mods wouldn't you be looking at 1/10ths of a second improvements? or am i way off the mark and it basically all comes down to improving the driveability?

Yes I have the pulley kit.

I'm on a mission to save weight. Car is super responsive already, even better response from the pulley kit + shaft will be a bonus but weight savings are my main focus. The shaft + pulleys are half the weight of the original items.

few quick questions RE: pulley kit.

i would say your car is an exception to most other regular street cars.

first of all, would you recommend it for the average skyline daily driver/street car?

second of all, what were the gains like? any negatives?

lastly, cost? (UAS $430 for R32GTST... no R33)

Car is in the paint shop and I've not yet tracked it since the pulley kit so bare with me! I'll be sure to report back.

PS: My car really isn't a street car. It's much more of a circuit car. It is street registered and fully engineered but it's damn hard to drive on the street. UAS prices are about right but I get all my gear through www.jdmyard.com prices I can't mention as I work for them and get special rates. Hope that helps!

Were you advised to protect the driveshaft (when it is in the car) in anyway or does the driveshaft already have some sort of protection over the CF section?

I have been told that CF tailshaft don't like scratches and dings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...